Local meat production on Martha’s Vineyard

Local meat production on Martha’s Vineyard

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Jefferson Monroe of the Good Farm prepares to kill a chicken. — Photo by Susan Safford

This weekend, Islanders will get a chance to sample chicken and pork raised on Martha’s Vineyard while supporting the effort to have meat processed here too. Called Local Meat is Good to Eat — But There’s More to Life than Chicken, and sponsored by Island Grown Initiative (IGI) and the Martha’s Vineyard Agricultural Society, the event is on Saturday, November 6, from 4 to 9 pm at the Agricultural Hall. The evening is intended to raise both funds and public awareness to support the development of an Island processing facility for beef, lamb, pork, and other four-legged animals.

Locally grown food at the dinner will include pork from Cleveland Farm in West Tisbury and The FARM Institute, and chicken from the Good Farm, all prepared by Tim Laursen and Everett Whiting, the creators and cooks of Local Smoke, barbecue and smoked meat caterers. Side dishes will come from Morning Glory Farm and the Scottish Bakehouse and dessert from Tisberry Frozen Yogurt with smoothies made from Mermaid Farm yoghurt. The Eric Johnson Trio and DJ DI will provide music. Tickets are $50 per person and $75 per couple (children free) and are available at Cronig’s, Alley’s General Store, and the Scottish Bakehouse.

Building on IGI’s successful mobile poultry processing unit, a meat processing facility would be another step in the Vineyard’s version of the local food movement. IGI has been awarded a competitive grant of $40,000 from the USDA’s Know your Farmer, Know your Food program to research and develop recommendations for the facility: What size would it be? Mobile or stationary? Who will run it? Who will own it?

“It is great to see this happening and the interest,” says Eleanor Fischer Neubert, long-time manager of the agricultural fair and a member of the Agricultural Society’s Board of Trustees. “This idea has been talked about for years, especially when the new fairgrounds were built. But IGI has gotten the ball rolling.”

Ms. Neubert grew up on Flat Point Farm in West Tisbury during the 1950s, a time when “locally grown” was a practice, not a movement. “We had our own beef, chickens, pork, guinea hens, lamb…” she says. “I don’t remember ever having meat from the store.” She still owns Flat Point Farm, with her brother Arnie Fischer, and they still raise meat animals. But she shares the frustrations of other Island livestock producers.

Currently, farmers who sell beef, lamb, and pork must take their animals off-Island to a USDA-inspected slaughtering and processing facility. With the increased centralization of meat production, the number of these facilities has shrunk dramatically in recent years. USDA reports show that between 1992 and 2008, there was a 33 percent reduction — to only 800, nationally — even as the number of small farmers increased by over 100,000. There are only two plants in Massachusetts now, the closest in Athol, some 130 miles from Woods Hole. It means two round trips, one to take the animals and another to pick up the processed meat.

But is there enough livestock on the Vineyard now to support a large animal slaughtering facility? IGI’s mobile poultry processing unit has demonstrated at least part of the answer.

Richard Andre of Cleveland Farm and IGI’s poultry and meat coordinator, explains that the mobile poultry processor showed that developing the infrastructure is — well -— a chicken and egg proposition. “Three years ago there might have been 200 chickens processed,” he says. “With the mobile processing unit this year we have done about 5,000.” The birds were not there before. Knowing the processing was available made farmers and home producers see it was feasible.

“And it was a little economic stimulus package,” Mr. Andre adds “There was $100,000 in business generated, with $35,000 of it being in wages.”

Andre doesn’t imagine the same kind of increase in beef, pork, and lamb, but he can picture a doubling or tripling of numbers if the processing were more convenient and economical.

And with the growing interest in food quality and locally grown food, the market may well be there. The 5,000 birds processed this year do not amount to a chicken per year in every year-round Island family pot, never mind the summer population and the demand for premium food from restaurants. “Even supplying 10 percent of our meat from local sources would be a big deal,” Mr. Andre says.

One of the organizers of Saturday’s dinner is the Good Farm’s Jefferson Monroe, who represents the future of the Vineyard’s livestock production. Mr. Monroe will supply chickens for the meal from the 1,300 he raised this year on leased Land Bank property off State Road in Tisbury.

Mr. Monroe would like to raise meat goats, an idea that is not being done on the Island yet. “I’ve had a lot of interest from local chefs,” he says. “I think it would be popular.” He also works on the poultry unit for IGI and will be involved in the feasibility study for the facility that could help make his idea a reality.

Sundy Smith is a writer and long-time summer resident. She moved to West Tisbury full-time this summer with her husband, Jon Previant, Director of The FARM Institute.

Sidebar

Meet Your Local Meat Producers

The following Island farmers sell meat, according to IGI’s summer Island Grown map. Call ahead to check on availability.

Allen Farm Sheep and Wool

Clarissa Allen and Mitchell Posin

421 South Road, Chilmark,

508-645-9064

Organic grass-fed lamb, beef, pork, pastured poultry.

Blackwater Farm

Debby Farber and Alan Cottle

Lambert’s Cove Road, Behind Cottle’s

West Tisbury

508-693-9785

Beef, pork

Cleveland Farm

Richard and Ina Andre

674 Old County Road, West Tisbury

508-693-2043

Pastured poultry and pork

Christiantown Farm

Sue and Sam Hopkins

185 Christiantown Road, West Tisbury

508-693-2065

Grass-fed lamb

The FARM Institute

Katama Farm

14 Aero Avenue Edgartown

508-627-7007

Grass-fed beef, pork, chicken, pastured turkey for Thanksgiving

Flat Point Farm

Road to Great Neck, off New Lane

West Tisbury, 508-693-5685

Arnie Fischer Jr. and Eleanor Neubert

By appointment, grass-fed lamb and beef

The Good Farm

Jefferson Monroe

Tisbury Meadow Preserve, Vineyard Haven

714-785-0112

thegoodfarmmv@gmail.com

Pasture-raised poultry

Mermaid Farm and Dairy

Caitlin Jones and Allen Healy

9 Middle Road, Chilmark 508-645-3492

Lamb and beef

Morning Glory Farm

Jim and Debbie Athearn, Simon Athearn, Daniel Athearn

Edgartown-West Tisbury Road, Edgartown

508-627-9003

Beef, pork, chicken

Native Earth Teaching Farm

Rebecca Gilbert and Randy Ben David

94 North Road, Chilmark

508-645-3304

Occasional pork, duck, and turkey.

North Tabor Farm

Rebecca Miller and Matthew Dix

4 North Tabor Road, Chilmark,

508-645-3311

Pork, poultry

Northern Pines Farm

Janet and John Packer

Off Lambert’s Cove Road, Vineyard Haven

508-693-1025

By appointment: Chicken, beef, pork

Spring Moon Farm

Liz Packer and Children

Northern Pines Road off Lambert’s Cove Road

Vineyard Haven by appointment or

At SBS Grain Store

Whiting Farm

Bea Whiting

beawhiting@mac.com

By appointment: Lamb, poultry, pork

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