Good Taste: Breakfast at the Edgartown Inn

Good Taste: Breakfast at the Edgartown Inn

By the time you’ve stepped inside the front door of the Edgartown Inn the hustle and bustle of downtown seems miles away. Built in the 1700s by a whaling captain, 56 North Water Street became the Edgartown Inn in the 1800s. It has been under the same ownership for the last 45 years and serving breakfast for at least 50. The bread, coffee cake, and pancake batter recipes have been tried, tested, and relied upon for generations.

At the end of a narrow corridor full of antique relics is a small country style dining room. Five tables are adorned with blue and white-checkered tablecloths upon which rest the day’s menu under a glass tabletop. As it gets busier, outside garden patio seating will be available as well.

The dining room is full of old-fashioned dolls, model ships, bottles, tools, and photos in a way that feels homey as opposed to cluttered.

The Edgartown Inn’s kitchen manager, Rali Ivanova, has been baking bread, making batter, and frying eggs for the last 10 years. “You can see our menu is small,” she says, “but everything is made from scratch. It’s just a nice place. And it’s reasonable.”

Before taking my order, waitress Akeyah Nunes brought hot coffee and freshly baked (still warm) blueberry coffee cake. When Ms. Nunes isn’t busy with customers she helps Rali with the baking. White and oatmeal bread is always available in addition to a specialty that might be cheese, cinnamon raisin, or on this particular morning last week, cranberry nut baked by Ms. Nunes.

It doesn’t take long to get familiar with the simple, to-the-point menu. The Full Breakfast, for $10, gives you a choice between two eggs any style served with bacon and toast and waffles or pancakes with toppings including apple cinnamon, blueberry, and the day’s special, in this case chocolate chip, as well as your choice of orange, apple, cranberry, grapefruit, and tomato juice or stewed prunes.

The Continental for $6 is just enough to get you going with coffee cake, coffee, juice, and toast.

The manager, Sandi Hakala, who has worked at the Inn for 26 years, acknowledges, “We’re not for everybody, because we don’t have sausage or eggs Benedict. But when someone finds us and likes us, they keep coming back.”

The eggs were good and hearty accompanied by thick slices of oatmeal bread, but I couldn’t help wonder what I was missing as the table next to me raved about their pancakes. “I thought pancakes were pancakes, why are they so good?” they wondered aloud. Maybe it was the homemade batter or perhaps the 100 percent pure maple syrup; either way I’ll be back to find out.

The Edgartown Inn serves breakfast from mid-April til the end of October seven days a week from 8 am to 11 am. For more information, visit edgartowninn.com or call 508-627-4794.

Also…

This Saturday, June 11, marks the first Farmers’ Market of the season at the Grange Hall in West Tisbury, from 9 am to 12 noon. Go meet your farmers!

Keep your eyes peeled at the old Back Alley’s, 7A Foods in West Tisbury is opening soon.