Good Taste: Eleven North in Edgartown opens its doors

The tuna martini: raw tuna served in a stemless martini glass.
Photo courtesy of Eleven North

The tuna martini: raw tuna served in a stemless martini glass.

On September 15, 11 North Water Street in Edgartown became Eleven North, and the old David Ryan’s was empty no more.

The inside is barely recognizable except for the familiar view of North Water Street from the bar. The walls are painted gray with white trim, the lighting is subtle and white linen tablecloths give the rooms (upstairs and downstairs) a fresh, elegant feel.

Jonathan Koerner, one of Eleven North’s owners, splits his time between the Vineyard and Boston, “though obviously I’m here a lot more now,” he said. He loves to cook, he loves food, and he’s been looking for a spot to open a restaurant on the Island for a long time. When 11 North Water Street became available, he jumped at the opportunity.

The summer was spent transforming the building. “It was a huge undertaking,” he said. “It’s an old building with a lot of history.”

Mr. Koerner and his team set out to create something special where anyone, from locals to summer guests, would feel welcome having a drink or a bite of something delicious.

And for the “something delicious” part, Mr. Koerner brought chef Matt Stogryn on board. Together they designed a menu that would be “seasonal, local, fresh and clean.”

Mr. Stogryn has cooked all over the country at Elisabeth Daniel in San Francisco, Tremont 647 in Boston, and on the Island at The Sweet Life Café in Oak Bluffs. For the maiden menu at Eleven North, Mr. Stogryn is using a combination of organic meats and local veggies for a nicely varied menu that includes burgers, tuna tartare, and whole poussin.

The tuna martini — made with diced sushi grade tuna is tossed with sesame seeds, wakami seaweed salad, and tobiko (for a little crunch!) served in a stemless martini glass — has been one of the most popular appetizers.

Local oysters are fried and served with pickled slaw and remoulade while local clams are steamed and served with chorizo, fennel, shallots, lemon, and butter.

The Caprese salad uses homemade mozzarella, heirloom tomatoes, basil, and extra virgin olive oil. For something a little heartier, the scallops and bacon is a great surf and turf dish, with seared local sea scallops, pork belly confit, corn, cilantro, shiso, and celery leaf.

For an entrée, the skirt steak frites are served with house-made tater tots, watercress, shallots, and chimichurri. The Eleven North Burger, made with organic meat, is $11. For the vegetarians, there is a daily preparation of Morning Glory Farm veggies.

Mr. Stogryn is working on an expanded bar menu, which currently offers char-siu chicken, Mediterranean spiced tuna, and a raw bar featuring local oysters and shrimp cocktail.

The menu will evolve with the season, and it will soon include lunch. “I’m excited for fall vegetables,” Mr. Stogryn said.

Because it can accommodate a lot of people, Eleven North is an ideal locale for holiday parties, rehearsal dinners, etc. Mr. Koerner is already taking bookings for 2012 Christmas bashes and 2013 wedding parties. Call 774-549-9187 for information.

Eleven North will be open year-round. Appetizers range from $8 to $16, entrées from $18 to $32.

Noteworthy

Monday, Oct. 8, marks the third annual Local Wild Food Challenge starting at 3 pm at the Martha’s Vineyard Rod and Gun Club in Edgartown. Albert Lattanzi of Lattanzi’s, and last year’s grand prizewinner Hal Ryerson, will judge. Visit localwildfoodchallenge.com for information or email info@localwildfoodchallenge.com to pre-register. You can also register the day of at the Rod and Gun Club.