L’Etoile celebrates 30 years with another season of fresh, innovative cuisine

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L'etoile's latest summer dish, Red Fish, White Fish, Pink Fish. — Photo by Marnely Rodriguez-Murra

In celebration of its 30th anniversary, we stopped by L’Etoile in Edgartown to catch up with Michael Brisson, chef and owner of the popular contemporary French restaurant. Personally, it’s one of the restaurants I recommend when someone has a special occasion to celebrate, not only for its incredible food, but for the attention to detail that astounds me. It’s the only restaurant on Island to provide real silver utensils (their flatware is from Villeroy & Boch), adding to the custom experience.

When I arrived, and before we even started talking, Michael brought out his latest summer dish, the Red Fish, White Fish, Pink Fish, for me to taste. An ode to the freshest fish, the dish includes pastrami smoked salmon, yuzo-pastis cured black sea bass, and spiced bigeye tuna, all served atop Arcadia greens, shaved fennel, Chioggia beet, green daikon, radish, and a hint of citrus segments. It might sound like a lot of ingredients, but it’s one of the simplest, freshest dishes I’ve ever tasted! The crisp flavors of the beet, daikon, and radish balance the fish perfectly — summer in a bite, and I recommend it 100 percent.

Once we got to talking (which was mostly me following Michael around the premises), you could sense how excited he was for his 30th year. His passion can be felt through his thorough explanations of the dishes, the cocktails, even the upcoming new cheese platter, which will feature exclusively of Grey Barn cheese.

Experience the delicate yet pungent paste of Prufrock, a washed-rind cheese that has a gorgeously thick yet soft yielding texture. Discover Eidolon, a bright, grassy cheese that smells of green pastures. Indulge in their latest cheese, Bluebird, a raw-milk blue cheese that’s aged over 60 days in their cheese cave. For a true cheese lover, topping off a dinner at L’Etoile with these cheeses is a dream come true.

The current menu is divided into firsts, seconds, and thirds, making a simple yet gorgeous progression. A variety of new dishes are showcased, with classic items such as their coconut oil–seared East Coast halibut fillet with carrot risotto, a dish I’ve dreamt about, and prefer not share when I order it.

For the dessert menu, L’Etoile’s culinary team is playing on the whimsical this season. Order the vanilla-scented panna cotta with cappuccino-cinnamon foam. Served alongside housemade cookies (raspberry linzer, chocolate decadence, and lemon drops), it’s the perfect way to treat yourself to a not-too-sweet dessert. As you dip your spoon into the foam, you’ll find the silky-smooth vanilla panna cotta — truly delicious! A sweet dessert is the classic crème brûlée with a hint of Grand Marnier. Perfectly cooked, its luscious texture takes over your senses.

Next time you’re looking for the ideal restaurant in Edgartown for a romantic night out on the town, cocktails with friends, or marking a special event, make reservations at L’Etoile (but walk-ins are also welcomed!).

L’Etoile restaurant, 22 North Water Street, Edgartown. Open seven days a week for dinner, starting at 5:30 pm. Martini and wine bar open nightly until around 11:30 pm. For reservations, call 508-627-5187.