Vineyard couple survives Tsunami devastation
An eyewitness account of survival
December 30, 2004
Don
Lyons, Times sports editor, received the following e-mail Tuesday
from Laura and Randy Durbin of Oak Bluffs from Malaysia. The couple
were aboard their Island-built 40-foot sailboat, Pollen Path, when
the natural disaster struck.
After spending Thanksgiving on the Vineyard, Laura and Randy returned
to Indonesia to rejoin their boat and begin the latest leg of an
around-the-world sailing journey that began 14 years ago when Randy,
a carpenter by trade, built the boat in a shop in West Tisbury.
The Vineyard couple were aboard their sailboat on Langkawi
Island, Malaysia when the tsunami struck.
Laura and Randy Durbin of Oak Bluffs
Tsunami damage in Telaga Harbor
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To
all our friends:
Thanks so much to all of you for your concern, worry, positive thoughts,
and prayers. We will reply to your e-mails individually as soon
as we can, but for the moment this will be another “mass e-mail”
to explain the situation. Apologies to those who have read this
summary already. Pollen Path is fine, and we are both fine.
This was a Boxing Day to remember. Pollen Path lay at anchor in
Pantai Kok, on the western side of Langkawi Island, Malaysia. After
a peaceful morning, the tsunami struck without warning. Unlike in
the Pacific Ocean, tsunamis are rare in the Indian Ocean and no
warnings are given. Randy was ashore on the beach helping a friend.
I looked up from the laundry to see a 4-meter wave come into the
anchorage outside Telaga Harbour Marina, the marina where we had
left Pollen Path for 10 months. The wave broke as it reached shallow
water — it knocked Pollen Path flat and some water came over
the stern. After several minutes, Randy managed to reach Pollen
Path in our dinghy. The anchorage turned into a swirling vortex
of muddy water — the water mucky brown and full of vicious
overfalls, eddies, and wicked currents. The wave bounced off the
shore as the water continued to pour into the anchorage creating
steep waves. Boats around PP smashed into each other, cruisers frantically
fending off boats and trying to evacuate the anchorage. Our anchor
dragged, and the current sucked us towards the entrance to the marina,
which is surrounded by rocks. Friends watched in horror as Pollen
Path was sucked back and forth through the whirlpool, completely
at the mercy of the strong currents. With only the 10hp outboard
we could not fight the currents and were sucked between the markers,
narrowly missing one, and spat out into the sea. Pollen Path, Randy
and I were unscathed. Once again, our valiant Pollen Path looked
after us well.
As this drama unfolded, unbridled chaos reigned in the marina. Those
tied in marina berths thought a boat had caused a large wake. Instead,
it was a tidal wave. Many pieces of the pontoon docks broke free,
taking boats with them. Telaga Harbour is home to many unattended
yachts whose owners had returned home for the holidays. Boats swirled
in the whirlpools and eddies — those on moorings broke free,
crashing into the loose boats and pontoons. The trimaran in the
slip beside where Pollen Path had been, flipped in the first surge,
sinking immediately and taking the sloop beside them along.
Water rushed at amazing speeds in and out of the harbour —
2.5-meter changes in depth. Boats went on the rocks, on the beach
in the anchorage, and were sucked out through the entrance. Two
heroic couples secured their own boats, then went on to save others
who were adrift or in trouble. One man was thrown in the water,
fighting to climb aboard his boat and avoid being crushed by debris.
Aside from severe bruises he and his children are fine.
Despite the devastation and destruction, no one here in Telaga was
hurt and no lives were lost, but many hearts, including ours are
broken. All boats have souls — spirits — and to witness
this is horrible. Beautiful boats are holed, varnished cabin sides
stove in, teak rails ripped off, stanchions gone, and most sadly,
mast tips visible above the basin.
The past two nights have been hellish. After the tsunami, another
wave was predicted to hit at 2 pm. Those boats which were able,
headed offshore to deeper water where the threat of a tsunami is
less. 2 pm passed, as boats milled on a flat, windless sea. The
prediction changed to 5 pm, 8 pm, midnight. By 8 pm, exhausted,
we dropped the pick, and kept watch through an endless night.
Next morning we headed back to Telaga to help others sift through
the destruction. The marina is gone — but for two pieces of
pontoon and the fuel dock. Last night, another wave was predicted
after an earthquake shook the Nicobar Islands. Thank God, nothing
materialized.
Before this tsunami, some of us here in Langkawi were unacquainted.
Pleasantries had been exchanged on the dock or we knew of each other
through mutual friends. Now, all of us have banded together, friendships
forged through the survival of a natural disaster of tremendous
proportions. Age, gender, or nationality are of no consequence in
our cruising community: Germans, Canadians, French, Malay, Americans,
South Africans, Thais, Australians, Japanese, and New Zealanders
are working together to undo some of the damage caused by the tidal
wave. As I look about, I feel we are privileged, fortunate, and
proud to keep company with this community.
Here at Telaga Harbour, progress is apparent three days after the
tsunami struck. Combined efforts of locals and cruisers and a London
tugboat have saved several boats. Some have been towed to the safety
of the anchorage or tied to the remnants of the pontoons; others
have been hauled from the water to effect repairs. Some have voyaged
north to Thailand, where the tsunami caused far more damage than
here. Other cruisers are still dazed, staring in horror at smashed
toe rails, snarled rigging, crushed bowsprits, and crumpled push
pits — boats smeared with creosote, paint gouged from hulls,
and more damage of all sorts. Some have remained to offer assistance
— it is the way of cruisers to help as best as they can. Moral
support, supplies, and expertise are freely being shared among the
fleet as are hugs of condolence and words of encouragement. Although
this community suffered, it all pales in comparison with Sri Lanka,
India, Thailand, the islands of the Nicobars, Andamans and Maldives.
Parts of Indonesia are so hard hit. The BBC reports over 60,000
have been killed, and the count continues. Please think of these
people and include them in your thoughts and prayers.
For us, the tsunami could have been much, much worse. Had the earthquake
occurred on the eastern side of Sumatra, we would not be here. The
destruction in Phuket is far worse, as that island is more exposed.
Randy and I are lucky, lucky beyond measure. And, it is due in no
small part to all of you. Thank you for thinking of us and caring
and for your kind thoughts and prayers for us and those around us.
This is source of strength for us.
Best love, Laura and Randy
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