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The
Martha's Vineyard Times is a weekly publication.
March 24 - March 30, 2005 Edition
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GARDEN
NOTES
Lawn
care for the long haul
March
24, 2005
By
Abigail Higgins
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Our wintry weather
will soon disappear and spring - or what passes for spring on Martha's
Vineyard - will prevail. The vernal equinox, when all over our planet
daylight and nighttime are equal and the sun rises exactly east and
sets 12 hours later exactly west, will occur in a few days. Since
an edict of 325 AD, the vernal equinox has determined when we celebrate
Easter: the first Sunday after the first full moon on or after the
vernal equinox. Therefore the sun crosses the equator northbound on
March 20 this year, the full moon occurs on March 25, Good Friday,
and then on March 27 Easter is celebrated. Both ancient and contemporary
societies link this point on the great circle around the sun with
rebirth, resurrection, and new life, thrusting winter's hardship and
loss firmly into the past for another year. Although we live in a
time of abundance presently, many early peoples celebrated for the
basic reason that their food supplies would soon be restored. It is
not coincidental that we have the Easter bunny: a symbol of hoped-for
fertility!
Hazards to health
Although many gardeners will be planting food crops in celebration
of spring, current polls by green industry groups show that lawn-care-as-garden-activity
is the preferred choice of a majority of Americans. I want to write
a few words here about combining the celebration of spring with healthy
lawn-care that everyone can live with. What has really made me think
about this is a continuous stream of information about impacts going
back many years. Private wells needing to be redrilled deeper. Nutrient
loading and eutrification occurring in various bodies of Island water.
Salt water intrusion increasing and groundwater containing substances
it should not. Environmentally-related health issues in humans (and
household pets) spiraling ever upward. Shallow bays and estuaries
losing eelgrass habitat and micro-species needed to sustain economically
important species. Massive die-off at local hatchery projects.
Here on the Island we live, by definition, in a finite environment.
While our environment receives poisons from air pollution and acid
rain that we are unable to control, what we do in our own backyard
is very much under our own direction. I am amazed at times that there
can be so much disagreement about doing the things that will keep
it as healthy and functioning as possible. It is not that the intention
does not exist. It is that there exists a big gap of denial between
actions and consequences.
Is it possible to dislodge the bogus connections between a perfect
lawn, civic virtue, and petrochemical addiction (what I would call
Lawn Culture) that have been foisted on us over the years by an alliance
of Madison Avenue advertising companies and the petrochemical industry?
These messages work powerfully on our subliminal minds. Maybe not,
when one considers that, nationally, lawn care and its associated
businesses are estimated to be worth in excess of $30 billion dollars.
On the other hand, many of us have now grown more aware that dependence
on petroleum requires us to fight and die in foreign wars; that along
with receiving many products for better living, we are caring for
family members and pets with increasing malignancies, chronic pulmonary
insufficiency, and neurological damage such as Parkinson's disease,
multiple sclerosis, and amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (Lou Gehrig's
disease). We now know we should have our drinking water tested. Do
we know that perhaps we should not play on the lawn? Tell that to
the dog.
Start with good soil
The very first connection that needs to be challenged is that a green
lawn correctly grown requires petrochemical inputs of herbicides,
pesticides, and mercury-based fungicides. There seems to be a great,
irrational fear that without these products the goal of a nice lawn
is unachievable. In an article many people saw in the Boston Globe
magazine last summer, Tracy Mayor wrote the following: In our
quest for the perfect lawn, or even just a passable chunk of grass,
Americans are putting far too many things on it
too many pesticides
and herbicides, some of which are known carcinogens; too much fertilizer,
which can run off into lakes, rivers, and bays; and too much water.
I have a feeling that I shall be unable to persuade the person who
has uncritically accepted the dictate of Lawn Culture that these inputs
are not necessary. Nonetheless, it is true that you need a healthy
soil to grow a healthy lawn. If the lawn is not healthy, start by
looking at the life of the soil. Is it over-fed with quick-acting
fertilizer? Is it over-watered by an irrigation system set not by
need but by I love my lawn? Send in a sample for testing;
indicate that the use is lawn. Ask for a standard
soil test w/ organic matter. (UMass, 1-413545-2311; http://www.umass.edu/plsoils/soiltest.)
Many homeowners do not understand that the petrochemical inputs and
irrigation they apply in order to have a nice lawn may actually impede
the desired result by creating the conditions for disease in turf
and soil. The test will come back to you with specific recommendations
for that patch of ground.
Resources and materials
An area that has undergone excessive compaction due to construction
surrounds new houses and additions. It may take a while (as long as
seven years) for the soil to return to a semblance of natural biology
and structure. Keep this in mind when caring for turf, whether natural
or sodded. It is generally true that Island lawns need lime to unlock
the soil's fertility: the underlying mineral soils formed from granite
rock are acidic; the acid in our rainfall continuously acidifies our
soils; and nitrogen in fertilizers tends to acidify soil. Nevertheless,
test to be sure.
Over-seeding a thin patch with high quality seed is simple: most seed
has easy-to-follow instructions on the box or bag. Use shade mix for
shaded areas. To green up a lawn and add organic matter, spread compost
or fine leaf mould by raking into the lawn surface. Leave the clippings
when mowing. Cut at three inches or more and use a sharp blade. If
treating a lawn for grubs or nutgrass - be aware that these two problems
are more frequent on patches that are warm/south-facing and sandy.
It may not be necessary to treat the entire lawn. Go always for the
non-chemical solution: beneficial nematodes for control of undesirable
insect infestations or beneficial soil organisms that can be applied
as a soil drench or spray. It is not unreasonable to ask oneself:
am I applying something my child's (or pet's) liver is going to have
to work overtime to detoxify?
Inputs can only be effective when the roots of the lawn grass are
already in a healthy state. Learn to look at the fine print on the
fertilizer bag. Use low number soil food fertilizers or
ones that tell what percentage of nitrogen is Water Soluble Nitrogen
(WSN - quickly available nitrogen) and what percentage Water Insoluble
Nitrogen (WIN or SRN -slowly available nitrogen.) While WSN greens
up a lawn quickly, it has the potential to leach out into the water
table or burn the grass. WSN can cause overly lush top
growth unsupported by proper root development and thus leave the lawn
vulnerable to a number of disease conditions.
Lawns are not the only element of our landscape needing attention;
after the rigors of the past winter, our trees and shrubs will be
showing a great deal of wear and tear as well. Join Steve Masterson
at the Polly Hill Arboretum (PHA) Tuesday, March 29, from 2 to 4 pm
for a first-hand assessment of winter damage to the PHA woody plant
collection; receive useful pruning and structure advice to minimize
future problems. Call 508-693-9426 or visit www.pollyhillarboretum.org
for further information.
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Martha's Vineyard Times 2004 - www.mvtimes.com
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