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The Martha's Vineyard Times

The Martha's Vineyard Times is a weekly publication.
June 30 - July 6, 2005 Edition
Web Comments - Email Submissions

Garden Notes
June 30, 2005


There is no new Garden Notes column this week.

Pests savor taste of the Island
June 23, 2005


By Abigail Higgins





(From top) A spittlebug bug, a variety of leafhopper, leaves its trail on a rose bud stem. Damage to Nymphenburg rose leaf by sawfly larva. Psyllid leaves a white secretion on new growth of the boxwood leaf. Photos by Susan Safford

Welcome to another Vineyard summer. Many gardeners are presently preoccupied with the dramatic evidence of caterpillars, but more mundane and less conspicuous pests are about as well. Leafhoppers and “spittle bugs” are active now, sucking plant juices and transmitting plant diseases. Another current pest is the roseslug, a sawfly larva that disfigures and damages foliage of roses. A third is the boxwood psyllid, a bit like a miniature leafhopper that causes cupped foliage on boxwood.

The roseslugs are in the order Hymenoptera and are therefore not true Lepidopteran caterpillars. Their action looks somewhat similar to leafminer damage. (Leafminers, however, are actually inside the leaf they are feeding on.) One will see pale green mosaic-like plaques on the leaves where they are feeding. They can be found on either the surface or underside of the leaf. Since roseslugs are not Lepidopteran caterpillars, they are not subject to the action of Bacillus thuringiensis: do not bother to spray with that.

The following information comes from the web site of the University of Minnesota. “Sawflies are small, dark, non-stinging wasps. Sawfly larvae skeletonize rose leaves. These larvae look much like butterfly or moth caterpillars, but can be identified by the number of fleshy legs (prolegs) that follow the front three pairs of legs. Sawflies have five or more pair of prolegs, while caterpillars have less than five. Three species of sawflies feed on rose foliage. All three species are light green with orange heads and late larvae can reach 3/4 inch (19 mm) in length. Rose sawflies produce damage called skeletonization by chewing away a layer of the leaf except for the veins. The thin layer remaining turns clear or brown and the uneaten veins appear like a skeleton. The older larvae of the bristly roseslug and curled rose sawfly chew holes rather than skeletonizing the leaves. Begin to scout for sawfly larvae in early May. Roseslugs feed through June and are not seen again until the next spring. The curled rose sawfly also has one generation per year. The bristly roseslug has several generations throughout the summer. Sawflies often feed on the undersides of leaves, so inspect all leaf surfaces.

“Sawflies are best controlled when young. Several options exist for control. A practical physical tactic is to simply smoosh them or pick them off by hand. Dislodging them with a stick or a stream of water also works. If using water be sure to spray early enough in the day to allow foliage to be dry by sunset so as not to create favorable conditions for fungal development. Horticultural oil, insecticidal soap and azadiractin (neem), are low-toxicity biorational insecticides for young sawflies. Azadiractin is slower acting. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is effective on young lepidopteran caterpillars but not on larval sawflies. Avoid spraying the rose flowers as many conventional insecticides are highly toxic to bees.”

Cupped leaves on boxwood are a sign of the presence of the boxwood psyllid, Psylla buxi. So are the excreted squiggles of a whitish-grey waxy material. There is one generation a year and if the boxwood is clipped or hedged, there is no need for further control. Otherwise control consists of horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps—effective, although coverage within the cupped leaves is essential to ensure contact with the nymphs. Oils and soaps should be applied now! Adult psyllids can be controlled with acephate (Orthene) or carbaryl (Sevin) and a further control strategy is to apply imadicloprid (Merit) as a soil drench at the root zone in the fall. However, the use of horticultural oil and insecticidal soaps makes these highly toxic treatments unnecessary.

Spittlebugs and treehoppers are types of leafhopper; there are hundreds of different species. The juvenile spittlebugs make a mass of spittle and then hide inside it. The rose leafhopper is prevalent on or around the buds and foliage of roses just now. It produces a white stippling on the foliage. According to the wonderful and comprehensive insect book, Garden Insects of North America by Whitney Cranshaw (Princeton University Press, Princeton 2004, 656 ppg) the rose leafhopper inserts its eggs into the canes of roses (bramble fruits as well), and these wounds serve as entry points for pathogens. I find they can be controlled but not eliminated with insecticidal soap. Some leafhoppers can cause a form of damage to plants called hopperburn, where the plant’s circulation system is damaged. Others transmit plant diseases such as aster yellows, which afflicts many garden flowers and vegetables such as cosmos, asters, and carrots.

In routine garden and yard maintenance, there is a lot to do and it is to be hoped that we can do it in a sunny and settled summer. Herbaceous perennials, annuals, and bulbs are of primary importance now — their general maintenance and care. Deadhead/deadleaf perennials like peonies, iris, woodland phlox, and viola. Weed. Apply sprays for control of the above-mentioned insects, and others, in low-light conditions of early morning or late afternoon to avoid leaf burn. Train dahlias, climbing roses, and clematis. Put up strings for morning glories. Weed.

Stake floppy or tall-growing plants such as campanula species or delphinium. Some mounders, like alchemilla, lysimachia, or larger nepetas like ‘Six Hills Giant,’ will need to be kept off lawn or walkways with unobtrusive string and stakes. Gardeners favor different techniques for different plants, which include bamboo and twine in several configurations, and pre-formed metal supports. Shear back pansy pots and let them rest in an out-of-the-way place. Prune spring-flowering shrubs like lilac for shape or deadheading. Weed.

Feed roses if it has not already been done. They appreciate a monthly feed with a low-number organic fertilizer throughout the season of active growth. Mark plants, such as individual iris in an iris bed, or peonies in a peony bed, that are candidates for division or relocation. While they have traces of bloom their identification will be positive. Weed. Consider applying time-release fertilizer to planters, containers, and pots. Floating row covers are effective at keeping pests off cole crops, beans, and chard. Hedge privet as part of a three-times-per-summer (June, July, late August) schedule. Continue to tune up mulches. Crabgrass is making its appearance. Weed.

This afternoon an interesting program, an enlightening look at the link between landscaping and the environment on the Vineyard, takes place at the Oak Bluffs school cafeteria. Matt Pelikan and Chris Henriksen will present “Planting with a Purpose” from 4 to 6 pm. The Polly Hill Arboretum, the Nature Conservancy, and the Friends of Sengekontacket are sponsoring the program, and admission is free.

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