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The
Martha's Vineyard Times is a weekly publication.
June 30 - July 6, 2005 Edition
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Garden
Notes
June
30, 2005
There is
no new Garden Notes column this week.
Pests
savor taste of the Island
June
23, 2005
By
Abigail Higgins
Welcome to another
Vineyard summer. Many gardeners are presently preoccupied with the
dramatic evidence of caterpillars, but more mundane and less conspicuous
pests are about as well. Leafhoppers and spittle bugs
are active now, sucking plant juices and transmitting plant diseases.
Another current pest is the roseslug, a sawfly larva that disfigures
and damages foliage of roses. A third is the boxwood psyllid, a bit
like a miniature leafhopper that causes cupped foliage on boxwood.
The roseslugs are in the order Hymenoptera and are therefore not true
Lepidopteran caterpillars. Their action looks somewhat similar to
leafminer damage. (Leafminers, however, are actually inside the leaf
they are feeding on.) One will see pale green mosaic-like plaques
on the leaves where they are feeding. They can be found on either
the surface or underside of the leaf. Since roseslugs are not Lepidopteran
caterpillars, they are not subject to the action of Bacillus thuringiensis:
do not bother to spray with that.
The following information comes from the web site of the University
of Minnesota. Sawflies are small, dark, non-stinging wasps.
Sawfly larvae skeletonize rose leaves. These larvae look much like
butterfly or moth caterpillars, but can be identified by the number
of fleshy legs (prolegs) that follow the front three pairs of legs.
Sawflies have five or more pair of prolegs, while caterpillars have
less than five. Three species of sawflies feed on rose foliage. All
three species are light green with orange heads and late larvae can
reach 3/4 inch (19 mm) in length. Rose sawflies produce damage called
skeletonization by chewing away a layer of the leaf except for the
veins. The thin layer remaining turns clear or brown and the uneaten
veins appear like a skeleton. The older larvae of the bristly roseslug
and curled rose sawfly chew holes rather than skeletonizing the leaves.
Begin to scout for sawfly larvae in early May. Roseslugs feed through
June and are not seen again until the next spring. The curled rose
sawfly also has one generation per year. The bristly roseslug has
several generations throughout the summer. Sawflies often feed on
the undersides of leaves, so inspect all leaf surfaces.
Sawflies are best controlled when young. Several options exist
for control. A practical physical tactic is to simply smoosh them
or pick them off by hand. Dislodging them with a stick or a stream
of water also works. If using water be sure to spray early enough
in the day to allow foliage to be dry by sunset so as not to create
favorable conditions for fungal development. Horticultural oil, insecticidal
soap and azadiractin (neem), are low-toxicity biorational insecticides
for young sawflies. Azadiractin is slower acting. Bacillus thuringiensis
(Bt) is effective on young lepidopteran caterpillars but not on larval
sawflies. Avoid spraying the rose flowers as many conventional insecticides
are highly toxic to bees.
Cupped leaves on boxwood are a sign of the presence of the boxwood
psyllid, Psylla buxi. So are the excreted squiggles of a whitish-grey
waxy material. There is one generation a year and if the boxwood is
clipped or hedged, there is no need for further control. Otherwise
control consists of horticultural oils and insecticidal soapseffective,
although coverage within the cupped leaves is essential to ensure
contact with the nymphs. Oils and soaps should be applied now! Adult
psyllids can be controlled with acephate (Orthene) or carbaryl (Sevin)
and a further control strategy is to apply imadicloprid (Merit) as
a soil drench at the root zone in the fall. However, the use of horticultural
oil and insecticidal soaps makes these highly toxic treatments unnecessary.
Spittlebugs and treehoppers are types of leafhopper; there are hundreds
of different species. The juvenile spittlebugs make a mass of spittle
and then hide inside it. The rose leafhopper is prevalent on or around
the buds and foliage of roses just now. It produces a white stippling
on the foliage. According to the wonderful and comprehensive insect
book, Garden Insects of North America by Whitney Cranshaw (Princeton
University Press, Princeton 2004, 656 ppg) the rose leafhopper inserts
its eggs into the canes of roses (bramble fruits as well), and these
wounds serve as entry points for pathogens. I find they can be controlled
but not eliminated with insecticidal soap. Some leafhoppers can cause
a form of damage to plants called hopperburn, where the plants
circulation system is damaged. Others transmit plant diseases such
as aster yellows, which afflicts many garden flowers and vegetables
such as cosmos, asters, and carrots.
In routine garden and yard maintenance, there is a lot to do and it
is to be hoped that we can do it in a sunny and settled summer. Herbaceous
perennials, annuals, and bulbs are of primary importance now
their general maintenance and care. Deadhead/deadleaf perennials like
peonies, iris, woodland phlox, and viola. Weed. Apply sprays for control
of the above-mentioned insects, and others, in low-light conditions
of early morning or late afternoon to avoid leaf burn. Train dahlias,
climbing roses, and clematis. Put up strings for morning glories.
Weed.
Stake floppy or tall-growing plants such as campanula species or delphinium.
Some mounders, like alchemilla, lysimachia, or larger nepetas like
Six Hills Giant, will need to be kept off lawn or walkways
with unobtrusive string and stakes. Gardeners favor different techniques
for different plants, which include bamboo and twine in several configurations,
and pre-formed metal supports. Shear back pansy pots and let them
rest in an out-of-the-way place. Prune spring-flowering shrubs like
lilac for shape or deadheading. Weed.
Feed roses if it has not already been done. They appreciate a monthly
feed with a low-number organic fertilizer throughout the season of
active growth. Mark plants, such as individual iris in an iris bed,
or peonies in a peony bed, that are candidates for division or relocation.
While they have traces of bloom their identification will be positive.
Weed. Consider applying time-release fertilizer to planters, containers,
and pots. Floating row covers are effective at keeping pests off cole
crops, beans, and chard. Hedge privet as part of a three-times-per-summer
(June, July, late August) schedule. Continue to tune up mulches. Crabgrass
is making its appearance. Weed.
This afternoon an interesting program, an enlightening look at the
link between landscaping and the environment on the Vineyard, takes
place at the Oak Bluffs school cafeteria. Matt Pelikan and Chris Henriksen
will present Planting with a Purpose from 4 to 6 pm. The
Polly Hill Arboretum, the Nature Conservancy, and the Friends of Sengekontacket
are sponsoring the program, and admission is free.
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