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Martha's Vineyard Times is a weekly publication.
July 14 - July 20, 2005 Edition
- Email Submissions
is no new Edibles story this week.
New eateries: from elegant to exuberant
By Julian Wise
Whether you want
an intimate and elegant dining ambience with contemporary gourmet
delicacies, or a hearty Southwestern feast with south of the border
beverages in a casual setting, two brand-new establishments in this
seasons dining scene offer it all.
Kevin and Suzanna Crowell's restaurant Détente offers
a cozy Edgartown retreat. Photo by Ralph Stewart
Nestled in the cozy confines of Edgartowns Nevin Square, Detente
offers a secluded respite from the bustle of summer. Proprietors Kevin
and Suzanna Crowell have created a fusion of contemporary American
cuisine with French and Italian influences to offer an elegant dining
experience. The warm, inviting ambience of the interior harkens to
classic European restaurants, with the banquette and bar areas colored
in soothing burgundies, gold, and natural wood hues. Photographs of
the Crowells trips to Europe line the walls and an outdoor terrace
permits candlelight dining during the summer months. The soapstone
bar serves tapas-style appetizers for those looking to enjoy something
lighter with a glass of wine rather than a full meal.
Chef Kevins specialties include beef tenderloin served over
potato gratin with spinach, sauterne verblanc, and shaved fois grois.
The rack of lamb is served with goat cheese beignet with red wine-braced
carrot, fava beans, and spiced lamb reduction. Halibut is served pan-seared
with a fennel pollen dusting in artichoke bisque with crispy potato
dumplings, oven-dried tomato, and hearts of palm salad. The wine list
currently features more than 110 varieties from all over the world,
with many that will surprise wine aficionados.
Sharkys Cantina on Circuit Avenue in Oak Bluffs is the latest
incarnation of Cafe Olé. Its a great place to get a quality
burrito at an affordable price. Proprietors Jesse Martin, Josh Aronie,
and Jon Blau have created a festive, casual venue with a varied and
flavorful menu of authentic Mexican fare. The decor features southwestern
hues of tans, reds, and blues punctuated by neon beer lights and chalkboard
paint by the windows featuring inscriptions like No lifeguard
on duty have fun at your own risk, and When youre
feeling low you gotta try the pico de gallo. Salsa and mariachi
music set the tone for patrons who can choose between bar and table
While Sharkys features a full bar with 27 varieties of tequila,
a dozen beers, and popular mixed drinks like mojitos, sangria, and
margaritas (the passionfruit and blueberry mint are favorites), the
emphasis first and foremost is on food. The kitchen serves from 11am
to 12:20 am daily, offering authentic Mexican and southwestern dishes.
Chef Jesse Martin learned the ins and outs of Mexican cooking while
living in California and the restaurant imported cooks from New Mexico
to instruct Sharkeys kitchen staff in the fine points of southwestern
Premier dishes include the Sharkys Super Grande burrito, which
features a flour tortilla stuffed with meat or fish, rice, beans,
cheese, sour cream, guacamole, shredded cabbage, and pico de gallo.
The generous portion disappears quickly in a series of satisfying
bites. Sharkys Super Grande nachos include homemade tortilla
chips, melted cheese, jalapeno peppers, pico de gallo, sour cream,
guacamole, and beans. The Super Tacos feature two tortillas stuffed
with meat, cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, sour cream, and guacamole, served
with a wedge of lime. They can be ordered with fish, steak, shrimp,
or lobster. The Cuatros Leches (four creams) dessert is a delectable
spongecake soaked in condensed and evaporated heavy cream and coconut
milk with an orange reduction. The effect is a tantalizing rum-like
flavor that melts in ones mouth.
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