Eat & Drink

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The Startini cocktail from l'etoile.

The Vineyard has a different flavor after Labor Day. We all know there’s a change of pace once school starts up, the college kids ship out, and the out-of-state plates take off on the last of the full ferries.

Before long, vineripe tomatoes will be vine-ripe pumpkins, and fall flavors will be in full swing in our bars and restaurants. For many, this Labor Day weekend will be the last chance to grab a drink on the waterfront, and sip up the last drops of summer. Strawberries…watermelon…lemonade…an icy glass dewey with condensation — these drinks simply won’t be the same come September. Thirsty yet? There’s a lot of great summer drinks on the Island, so to ease your decision-making process, we surveyed a sample of bartenders for their favorite recipes.

The Island Girl: Deep Eddy Ruby Red Grapefruit vodka with watermelon and basil from Atria.

The Island Girl: Deep Eddy Ruby Red Grapefruit vodka with watermelon and basil from Atria. — Photo by Nicole Jackson

Jay Bergantim of 20byNine

Whiskey is a great way to warm up in winter or fall, but our friends at 20byNine, which opened up on Kennebec Avenue in Oak Bluffs earlier this summer, understand the importance of a cool summer cocktail. Their in-house whiskey guru invented this unique cocktail as a lighter addition to their menu of old-fashioneds and other traditional whiskey cocktails.

The Number Four

  • Peach Moonshine
  • Pineapple
  • Lemon
  • Shake and strain over ice into a cocktail glass
  • Garnish with a lemon twist

Goes best with: 20byNine’s quinoa salad. “They are both light; they balance each other nicely,” Bergantim said.

 

Lawrence Labounty of Copper Wok

Sale of hard alcohol is prohibited in Vineyard Haven, but Lawrence Labounty doesn’t let that stop him from mixing up a great cocktail. He recommends this White Peach Sake Sangria for a summer’s day.

White Peach Sake Sangria

  • 1 1/2 ounces white peach sake
  • 1 1/2 ounces pre-mixed juice of equal parts lemon juice and orange juice, half part sweet agave, and a splash of pomegranate juice
  • Shake over ice, strain, and top off the rest of the glass with prosecco
  • Garnish with blueberries and orange slices, or “get really fancy” and use raspberry and mint

Goes best with: “Any kind of spicy or ethnic cuisine,” Labounty said. Coconut green curry chicken anyone?

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Harbor View Prosecco cocktail with lemon and St. Germaine. — Photo by Nicole Jackson

Mike Brown of The Wharf Pub and Restaurant

Anyone with a garden is probably drowning in cucumbers right now. If you’re tired of salad, slice them into some water with lemon for a refreshing blast of hydration. Better yet, use them to garnish this cocktail that they serve at The Wharf in Edgartown.

Cucumber Lemon Martini

  • Pearl Cucumber Vodka
  • Splash of St. Germain Elderberry Flower liqueur
  • Splash of sour mix

Goes best with: The Wharf’s Pan Roasted Cod entrée with littlenecks, linguica, onion, tomato, garlic, and herbs over mashed potatoes.

Brad Tolbert of Park Corner Bistro

What says summer like a tangy-sweet lemonade? Make a grown-up lemonade stand at your home bar with this recipe from Park Corner, located in Oak Bluffs.

Strawberry Lemonade

  • Fresh muddled strawberries
  • Limoncello
  • Ginger purée
  • Tito’s vodka
  • Club soda

Goes best with: Park Corner’s crispy pig wings.

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The Trade Secret margarita from Beetlebung in Oak Bluffs. — Photo by Eleni Roriz

Kate Shea of The Seafood Shanty

The Shanty, on Edgartown harbor, is known for their mojitos (also a great summer drink), but their namesake is this Shan-tea, a tasty take on a vodka John Daly.

The Shan-Tea

  • Fresh muddled lemon
  • Firefly Sweet Tea vodka
  • Water
  • Shake and pour over ice

Goes best with: The Shanty’s lobster rolls and vinegar fries.

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Elijah Dunn-Feiner prepares to tackle a root beer float in 2012.

Ninety percent of the time I make really healthy choices. I eat right and I exercise. Most days of the year I spend in the gym, trying to squat or pull up more than my body weight. But then —  three glorious days of the year — I spend trying to eat more than my body weight. The first is Thanksgiving. The second is Christmas. The third is whichever day I go to the Ag Fair.

Julien Sapirstein munches on popcorn in 2011.

Julien Sapirstein munches on popcorn in 2011. — Lynn Christoffers

At this point in my life, I’m over stuffed animals, and I understand carnival games are money-sucking scams. I still hate clowns. But I’ll never be over Fair food.

Let me start by saying the Martha’s Vineyard Ag Fair is one of the nicest fairs on earth. I didn’t grow up here. I didn’t even summer here as a kid. But back on the New Hampshire border where I’m from, we had our own version of a county fair. It’s actually gotten a lot nicer in recent years, but it used to be the kind of place where the people belonged in barns more than the animals did. Still, I loved it, because I got to have fried dough and lemonade for dinner, and even though it meant cutting sticky sugar out of my hair for weeks, my mom would let me try to eat a whole candy apple on my own.

Now, on the Vineyard, I attend the Ag Fair with several friends. Within minutes of arriving we all lose each other, because everyone scatters immediately to their favorite food stand. When we find each other again, we swap bites, then break for round two.

I don’t need to wax scientific to tell you how strongly food and memory are related. We remember food smells best, and our olfactory bulb is connected to the part of our brain that registers emotion.

I thought I’d ask a few Islanders on Facebook about their favorite Fair food. It turned out I was asking them about their favorite Fair memories.

“Definitely the fried dough,” said Cody Chandler of Edgartown. “It’s our family tradition.” Claire Lindsey of Oak Bluffs is a fan of Football Tempura “mostly for nostalgia’s sake.” Dick Iacovello of Vineyard Haven likes the corndogs because he has fond memories of visiting with the guy who sells them.

My friends in the office confirmed my suspicions. “Root beer floats,” said Nicole Jackson, our graphic designer. “It reminds me of being a kid.” Eleni Roriz, our Calendar editor, shares my fondness for the strawberry shortcake stand. “I know it’s lame, but it’s something I’ve gotten every year since I was little,” she said.

Abigail Wilkinson enjoys cotton candy at the 2009 fair.

Abigail Wilkinson enjoys cotton candy at the 2009 fair. — Meg Higgins

Food at the Fair haven’t changed much. Corn on the cob and West Tisbury Firemen’s burgers have been around since anyone can remember, and newer ventures like Local Smoke’s pulled chicken and pork, and Floaters root beer floats were natural fits to the world of carnival food: the same cotton candy based meals that grace all fairs everywhere.

There’s something of an American tradition to it, and I like to think it’s more than a culture of obesity trying to eat as much sugar as possible. My parents took me to the fair and let me eat caramel apples, because a long time ago their parents took them to a fair and let them eat caramel apples. It was for the same reason we pass down our grandmother’s apple pie recipes through the generations, and bake them on the holidays.

One day, maybe my friends and I will take our own kids to the Ag Fair, and I like to think the strawberry shortcake lady will still be there. But we’re not quite ready to let go of our own childhoods yet. I still get an awful lot of caramel apple in my hair.

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The egg salad sandwich, featuring FARM Institute eggs, roasted red peppers and house made chips.

It’s a rare occasion when I trade out my preferred wardrobe of gym shorts and Dumptique-procured flannels for fancier garb. Usually it takes a funeral. Needless to say, the idea of putting on “real people clothes” just to eat has never much appealed to me, and the day my boyfriend puts on a suit coat it will probably be funny enough to go viral on YouTube.

The sunny dining room at The Terrace is a great lunch setting.

The sunny dining room at The Terrace is a great lunch setting. — Kelsey Perrett

But on jaunts into Edgartown, land of boat shoes and high heels, party dresses and pink shorts, I start to question my own poor fashion sense. Not because I care to hop on a yacht, but because I really want to eat at some of the delicious upper-scale establishments. My unwillingness to put on a dress often means I miss out on some key dining news. So when I walked into the Charlotte Inn this week on an entirely unrelated assignment, I was excited to learn that The Terrace has been serving lunch all summer long, and will continue to do so through Labor Day weekend.

The Terrace is one of the most aptly named restaurants on the Island. Situated just off Main Street in Edgartown, the Charlotte Inn is basically one big English garden. Actually, owner Gery Conover has been back and forth to England about 28 times, and in addition to furnishing the entire inn with an art gallery, he has engineered the grounds with beautiful private gardens worthy of cucumber sandwiches and high tea.

The restaurant itself is situated on a pleasant, brick-paved veranda, with indoor and outdoor seating. The glow of the afternoon sun through lush greenery mingles with the trickle of a fountain — it’s like eating in the world’s classiest greenhouse. The sheer aesthetics of it were enough to encourage the staff to start serving lunch. “It’s such a beautiful setting in the afternoon to be sitting outside and having a nice lunch,” executive chef Justin Melnick said.

The return of lunch with Chef Melnick is actually a nod to the Inn’s past. “Lunch used to be a big thing at the Charlotte Inn,” Chef Melnick said. “We decided to try it out again with a soft opening this summer.”

The Terrace Spinach Salad: sliced apples, house cured bacon, blue cheese, candied walnuts, dried cranberries, and warm vinaigrette.

The Terrace Spinach Salad: sliced apples, house cured bacon, blue cheese, candied walnuts, dried cranberries, and warm vinaigrette. — Kelsey Perrett

The menu is short and sweet, featuring classic American fare with a twist of creativity. “I try to work with as many local ingredients as possible,” Chef Melnick said. The lunch menu features lots of eggs — such as deviled eggs and egg salad — all from local chickens at The FARM Institute in Edgartown. Salads are founded on a bed of Morning Glory greens. “The main focus is finding the best ingredients and manipulating the food as little as possible,” he continued. “It’s about just letting the food speak for itself.”

One item that’s definitely making a splash is the lamb burger, with meat from Northeast Family Farms, caramelized onions, blue cheese, garlic and dill pickle, on a grilled brioche bun, with house-made chips. Chef Melnick also enjoys serving chilled soups on a hot summer afternoon, but he puts so much care into each dish, it’s hard to pick favorites. “People ask me all the time what’s the best thing on the menu, and now that I have two children, it’s sort of like choosing between them,” he said.

But here’s the best part (in my humble opinion): according to Chef Melnick, “lunch is certainly more casual than dinner.” That means no suit coats required, but do respect your location (you’re going to look damn silly in gym shorts). With quick service, only one course, and extremely reasonable prices ranging from $8 to $26, lunch at The Terrace is an all-around treat. It’s like buying a fancy dress half off, looking fantastic in it, and finding out that “real people clothes” are pretty comfy and breathable after all.

The Terrace: serving lunch Friday through Sunday through Labor Day; dinner nightly. For reservations and more information, call 508-627-4751 or visit thecharlotteinn.com. Also check out the new book, “The Charlotte Inn: Behind The Times on Purpose,” available now from Vineyard Stories.

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Feast on blueberries and other breakfast foods this Sunday, August 10.

The 10th annual Blueberry Festival, held at the Federated Church Parish House in Edgartown, is this Sunday, August 10. From 8:30 to 10:30 am, enjoy an all-you-can-eat breakfast. Proceeds benefit the Martha’s Vineyard Cancer Support Group. Admission is $8; $5 children; $25 for families. For more information, call 508-627-4421.

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The "Bananas Foster" sweet panini at BeeDees.

It’s August. We’re all busy. We all feel overworked and overtired. And we probably are, but in the spirit of “there’s always a bigger fish,” let’s consider this: at least four new restaurants have opened on Martha’s Vineyard in the past few weeks.

Anyone who has worked in food service — especially here, especially in summer — knows that the restaurant business is notoriously taxing. Long hours spent on tired feet in hot kitchens are already a hassle, but imagine doing it all from scratch in the busiest month of the year. Our brave friends at these new restaurants are marching fearlessly into August, reviving old haunts and adding new hotspots to the Island restaurant scene, maternally serving up food to strangers, some of whom have faces only a mother could love — and attitudes to match.

Truthfully, our servers and managers, hosts and cooks deserve culinary medals of honor. So take some time from your busy schedule and enjoy these newly opened spots. And don’t forget to tip your servers, and send compliments to the chef.

Veggie pizza by the slice at Isola.

Veggie pizza by the slice at Isola. — Photo by Kelsey Perrett

Isola: Back in the day (if you consider the 90s back in the day) Isola was the name of a Martha’s Vineyard restaurant owned by Todd and Olivia English, Glenn Close, Michael J. Fox, and Boston Bruins great Cam Neely. As of July 25, 2014, Isola (it’s Italian for island) is the name of the restaurant in Edgartown’s Post Office Square where Lattanzi’s used to be, owned by the Sullo family and featuring chef Max Eagan, all of Rocco’s fame. By day, Isola’s store front serves organic coffee, baked goods, pizza slices, and other lunch options. “I wanted to do a lot of raw foods,” said Gabrielle Sullo, manager of the store front. Healthy treat options, like the “amazeballs” are naturally dairy, sugar, grain, and gluten-free. When the bell tolls 5:30, the bar and restaurant open up for drinks and tasty Italian style entrées. “We’re getting busier as the word gets out,” said Gabrielle. “We’re definitely getting a lot of local business.”

Takeout window now open from 11 am to 7 pm. Bar and restaurant open for dinner every night from 5:30 to 10 pm. 774-549-9428.

Southwest style shrimp wrap from BeeDee's.

Southwest style shrimp wrap from BeeDee’s. — Photo by Kelsey Perrett

Bee Dees:

No offense to Pirate Jack’s Burger Shack, which used to grace this location on Oak Bluffs Avenue, but a peanut butter slathered bacon burger with fries isn’t exactly proper beach take-out. Pirate Jack’s replacement, Bee Dee’s, specializes in lighter fare, especially healthy to-go options such as salads, wraps, and paninis. The coolest part is they now deliver via tricycle to The Inkwell and Oak Bluffs Town Beach (Pay Beach), so sun soakers don’t even have to get off their sandy beach bums for lunch (order online at beedeesmv.com, or use their delivery app).

“We’ve had a lot of enthusiastic response about the delivery,” said co-owner Barbara Ciccolini. “It’s something Oak Bluffs has needed for a while. We were longtime visitors to the Island, and we always had that argument about who was going to go to town to get food. We also wanted to fill that void of food that was fresh and not always fried.”

Create-your-own sandwich options are available for omnivores, herbivores, vegana-vores, and glutenfree-a-vores, as well as flavorful salad combinations that can be rolled into a wrap. It’s not all rabbit food though: sweet-toothed O.B. dwellers can try a sweet panini on sweet bread or pound cake, filled with a combination of chocolate, bananas, sweet preserves, and topped with vanilla bean ice cream and housemade sweet sauces such as caramel. Bee Dee’s is friendly to Islanders and vacationers alike, offering a 10 percent discount with an Oak Bluffs hotel room key, and 10 percent Wednesdays for Island employees.

Now serving lunch and dinner from 11 am to 9:30 pm. Breakfast available at 7:30 am Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. 508-338-2220; beedeesmv.com.

"Amazeballs" at Isola's take out store.

“Amazeballs” at Isola’s take out store. — Photo by Kelsey Perrett

Fishbones: This prime piece of real estate on Oak Bluffs Harbor was bought out by Santoro Hospitality Group, owners of The Lookout Tavern, earlier this year, and strollers along the harbor have been anxiously awaiting its revival.

Though the name and logo of the waterfront bar and grill haven’t changed, manager Lisa Hawkes says the new Fishbones has updated it all. Not just the building, but chef Justin Stenuis has helped reinvent the menu with a Caribbean twist on seafood. Items such as coconut shrimp and blackened mahi mahi with mango salsa made their debut at Fishbones for the July 26 season opening.

“It was hard finding staffing in the middle of the summer, and we wanted to complete the new kitchen and the new menu,” said Ms. Hawkes of the late-season opening. “But we wanted to make sure if we were going to do this, we were doing it right.”

Now serving lunch and dinner from 11 am to 10:30 pm (bar until 11). 508-696-8227; fishbonesgrille.com.

Jimmy Sea’s:

After a brief hiatus, Jimmy Sea’s returned on July 17 under new ownership, but with the same old beloved experience of eating pasta straight from a pan bigger than your head.

Chef Scotty, who has been with Jimmy Seas for almost 20 years, is still manning the kitchen. Specializing in seafood and Italian flavors, Jimmy Sea’s offers linguini, scampi, and ravioli dishes with shrimp, lobster, beef, chicken, and more with tomato, pesto, and cream bases.

They’ve also hopped on the gluten-free bandwagon with some of their pastas, and new this year, they are offering house special pastas every night. “It got busy instantly,” said manager Olga Brown. “But our crew caught on right away, and it’s been a pretty smooth start.”

Now open for dinner from 5 pm to 10 pm. 508-687-9702; jimmyseaspanpasta.com.

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Chef James McDonough entered his second season at Lambert's Cove Inn, Farm, and Restaurant this summer.

Martha’s Vineyard has no shortage of restaurants and behind each one, there’s a top-of-the-line chef. The Times decided to get to know these epicurean wonders and are presenting our findings in a weekly series.

There’s something very welcoming about a restaurant with wainscoting, bookshelves, and French doors. Park it in the middle of a farm, and you almost feel as if you’re dining in a cottage in the English countryside. New this summer are chickens, two goats, and executive chef, James McDonough. On the Island since 1996, McDonough long ago mastered local cuisine, and he delights in the herbs and veggies grown right on the premises. Once the two teenaged goats come of age, watch for menu items featuring chevremade right in his kitchen.

How did you come to be on the Island?

In 1996 I answered an ad in The New York Times for an executive chef for the Beach Plum Inn. I had just come up from the Caribbean. My wife and I were down in St. Thomas for four years. We had our first two children and realized we needed help, so we came back to the States and I met with Paul Darrow [then owner of the Beach Plum Inn]. Funny enough, he’d gotten my résumé and had eaten at three restaurants that I worked at over the years pretty much at the time I was there — including in St. Thomas. All those coincidences led us to the thought that there was something going on and maybe we should meet. So, we met in New York City and he went through the rest of his interviews and I got the job.

How and when did you start cooking?

At age 14. I started out dishwashing at a small mom and pop place and pretty much right from the get-go started cooking to help them out — as most dishwashers do. By age 17, my senior year, I was pretty much running the place — opening and closing it. I don’t want to overplay that. It was an eatery more than a restaurant. Short order stuff.

But, I just fell into it. I love the adrenaline of cooking. I love the challenge of it, the fast pace of it.

How did you come to be working at Lambert’s Cove Inn?

[Owners] Scott and Kell approached me last summer with the idea of maybe working here. I helped them out a little bit last summer. Over the winter we talked about it. When I left Beach Plum, after 16 years of the 80-hour week, seven months on, five months off, I yearned for a more normal pace of life. And so I resigned there actually on New Years’ Day three years ago and hooked up with Jean Dupon, who was developing La Cave (in Vineyard Haven). I spent two years working with him — breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but I was able to set it up and hire and train staff and develop the menu so I was able to leave at five o’clock and come home and have a balanced life.

In that time frame, Jean was looking to sell, so things were a little unsure how much longer he would run it.

Have you ever had a major cooking disaster?

Oh, my gosh, yes! One that stands out more than anything else was when I was apprenticing at La Fromagerie my first year. It took me six months to work myself up to where I could be trusted to work on the line. One of the things the executive chef there, Imon, did was to teach me to make the paté en croute. It was a three-day process. It was a really wonderful experience. However, the first time I was allowed to do it on my own — you start it out at 450 degrees and when the top begins to brown you turn it down to 350 — I forgot to turn it down. I burnt six of them, which is about 80 orders. I took two days to get it to that point. Needless to say, Imon was not happy with me. There was absolutely nothing you could do to salvage it. It was a lesson I will never forget.

Is there a dish or meal you prepared that was part of a very special occasion?

That same paté we entered into a food show at the New York Coliseum in 1982 and it won a blue ribbon. Imon came to trust me to make them again, and I mastered them. I came in on my own time just to spend extra time with these things.

What’s the best single bite you ate in the last week?

My wife makes this homemade pizza with fresh garden vegetables, feta cheese, basil, garlic, and local greens. For something I don’t do — for something I really enjoy because I’m not doing it — it’s that.

Favorite dish on your menu?

Just one? Grilled pesto-crusted Atlantic salmon, tri-colored vegetable orzo, and heirloom tomato ragout. [The ragout] is kind of light and simple. The basil comes right from our garden.

Favorite dish you cook for your wife for a romantic evening at home?

Steamed Menemsha lobster.

What are your top five indispensable ingredients?

Extra virgin olive oil, garlic, tomato, house-made demi-glacé, and sea salt.

Your favorite kitchen tool?

My Vita-Prep (commercial food processor). It’s just so versatile for mixtures like soups and sauces.

Using local Vineyard produce, fish, game, etc., describe the perfect Martha’s Vineyard feast.

Bouillabaisse. I use a mélange of all the seafood that comes right from here — lobsters, little necks, scallops, striped bass, mussels. Island tomatoes, Island herbs. Accompanying that, a salad of mixed greens. For dessert, fresh mint from the garden and fresh berries with a white Chantilly cream.

What is your idea of a perfect day off on Martha’s Vineyard?

Pack the cooler and go to the beach. Surfing. Swimming. My wife and kids, picnic, cooler, beach all day.

If it could be anywhere in the world, where would you open your second restaurant?

St. Thomas. I’d go back down to the Caribbean. I miss it — parts of it. One of the major reasons for leaving was having the two kids and all the trials and tribulations of that. Getting all the things you needed. It doesn’t have to be St. Thomas. Any of those places down there.

What would you be if you weren’t a chef?

You know, I never really thought about that. Something with my hands. Something creative. I could see myself in landscaping. If I had a pipe-dream it would be as a professional surfer. I love the ocean, but never had the talent for that. So, a gardener or landscaper.

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The harvest of the month is cucumbers.

Every week at the West Tisbury Farmers’ Market it is such an adventure to walk between stands and see how the produce is changing. The season always starts off with lots of fresh greens including kale, spinach, lettuces, and so on. Then, some of the root crops show up including radishes, turnips, and onions. It really starts to get crazy when the fruits arrive – first strawberries, then summer squash and now, come late July, cucumbers. We are still waiting on tomatoes, but for now, let us celebrate cucumbers as July’s Harvest of the Month.

Cucumbers are made up mostly of water, and as such are a refreshing snack on a summer’s day. Enjoy sliced cucumbers with hummus for a protein-packed light lunch on a hot day. Mix things up and add them into water with some lemon and basil for a new flavor.

There are so many different types of cucumbers that it’s worth tasting them all to find which is your favorite. The very long, twisty, often striped Armenian cucumbers have a sweetness to them. Round and yellow, the heirloom lemon cucumber has an almost sour flavor. The list goes on: Japanese, slicing, pickling, and more.

With only about two months from seed to harvest, there’s still time to plant some cucumbers to enjoy at the end of September.

Pick up cucumbers from a local farmer and try Chef Robin’s Raita recipe.

Cucumber Raita, serves 4

Ingredients:

  • 3 medium-sized cucumbers, peeled and chopped
  • 2 cups plain yogurt
  • 1/2 tsp. cumin
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 Tbs. cilantro, chopped.

Combine cucumbers, yogurt, cumin, and salt. Garnish with chopped cilantro. Enjoy with lamb meatballs or falafel.

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The annual breakfast with the Rotary Club is Sunday, August 3.

Dine with the Rotary Club of Martha’s Vineyard this Sunday, August 3, at the annual all-you-can-eat pancake breakfast. From 7 am to 1 pm, the Rotary Club will serve pancakes, bacon, sausages, juice, milk, and coffee for $9 ($5 for children 12 and under) at The Anchors next to Edgartown’s Memorial Wharf. Proceeds benefit local services and organizations such as the Della Hardman Essay Contest, M.V. Boys and Girls Club, Windemere, and more.

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Island Cove co-owner Mary Gosselin fires up fuel on the outdoor grill for hungry mini golfers.

Sometimes the most satisfying food comes from the most unexpected places. No,
I don’t mean the time that you late-night dumpster dived at Dunkin’ Donuts in college (though in my…I mean YOUR defense, they do pristinely package their still-fresh baked goods before disposing of them).

What I’m talking about is those hidden gems of food spots. Holes in the walls. Best kept secrets. Like finding out Tisbury Farm Market might be one of the best coffee spots on the Island: the coffee is hot and strong, the price is right, and there’s never a line. I was going to keep that tidbit to myself, but I’m offering it up as my reward to you for reading my column, and continuing to read it after I discuss dumpster food.

So here’s another one for you: go play mini-golf, and make sure you work up an appetite, because the grill at Island Cove Adventures in Vineyard Haven is heating up. This shady cabana-style food stand has been around since 2002, but few people realize that Island Cove’s menu ranges far beyond ice cream. Mary Gosselin, who owns Island Cove with her husband, Ray, has a long history with food. A nutrition major, Ms. Gosselin came to the Island after college, where she learned the choreographed art of short order cooking at Island restaurants such as the Dock Street Coffee Shop.

“I wanted to own a restaurant, my husband wanted to own a mini golf,” Ms. Gosselin said. She gave her husband the go-ahead, on the condition that “I don’t have to be involved.” As it turned out, getting involved opened opportunities Ms. Gosselin didn’t know existed. She had already decided that the hospital work available for a nutritionist was not for her.

Grilled chicken, onions, and peppers on flatbread with Mary's special marinade.

Grilled chicken, onions, and peppers on flatbread with Mary’s special marinade. — Photo by Michael Cummo

“I was the first person people met when they were diagnosed with medical conditions. I was dealing with 40-, 50-, 60-year-olds who were scared, sick, and I was taking away their comfort foods,” Ms. Gosselin said. So she turned her attention to preventing health issues instead. “I decided I wanted to work with children, because then we could avoid that scary conversation. I wanted to teach kids to like chicken and vegetables, and make good food that tastes good.”

The mini-golf business provided the window to working with children that Ms. Gosselin sought. “I like to cook for kids because they are so spontaneous. If they like it, they’ll tell you, if not, they will too,” Ms. Gosselin said. “Most kids can deal with grilled cheese or a hot dog, but I have a lot of kids that love my grilled chicken. I feel like that’s a personal win for a child to fall in love with chicken.”

Having healthy choices at the mini-golf course was a given. Families were playing together, kids were powering up the rock wall, expending huge amounts of energy. Ms. Gosselin felt it necessary to provide them with the right fuel at the right price. In addition to burgers, dogs, and flatbread pizzas, there are vegetarian and gluten-free options such as fruit smoothies and a sweet potato black bean veggie burger. Prices range from $3.50 for a hot dog, to just under $7 for Mary’s specialty: chicken breast and veggies in a secret marinade, served atop a toasted flatbread.

“Everybody needs to eat, and we made a decision to keep it reasonable,” Ms. Gosselin said. “It’s hard to find good food at a reasonable price, especially in a venue like this. It’s what I would want to find if I were traveling with my family. What a surprise that I can have a veggie burger, or my child who’s gluten-free can join the family for dinner. And it tastes good.”

Island Cove manager Taylor Rasmussen holds out a "Dinosaur Crunch" ice cream cone covered in rainbow sprinkles.

Island Cove manager Taylor Rasmussen holds out a “Dinosaur Crunch” ice cream cone covered in rainbow sprinkles. — Photo by Michael Cummo

Ms. Gosselin says offering quality food and ice cream just adds to the positive family atmosphere. “It’s the only place I see families not texting,” she said. It instills the nostalgia for a perfect childhood vacation that Ms. Gosselin says families come back and thank her for year after year.

When I was a kid and went on vacation, my brother and I would always insist on playing mini-golf, mostly so we could beat each other with the putters behind my parents’ backs, or climb over the features into the appealing neon-blue ponds to fish out extra balls (also frowned upon). To bribe us into less-obnoxious behavior, my parents would dangle the possibility of ice cream in front of us. Looking back, a muggy night, a round of mini-golf, and a dripping ice cream cone defined what it meant to be a kid in summertime. Add to that a healthy meal, and a scramble up a rock wall, and you’ve got a real hole in one.

For more information, call 508-693-2611, visit islandcoveadventures.com, or look for Island Cove Adventures on Facebook.

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Edgartown selectmen voted unanimously to grant a liquor license to Rockfish, a new restaurant planned for 11 North Water Street. Members of the Coogan family, who also own and operate The Wharf Restaurant on Main Street, have completed an agreement to rent the building which recently housed the Eleven North restaurant, and before that, David Ryan’s.

“Our lease doesn’t technically start until October 1,” Geoghan Coogan told selectmen at their regular Monday meeting. “In the hopes of opening in October, we have to get the liquor license going.” The license still needs approval from the Massachusetts Alcoholic Beverage Control Commission.

“Sounds like a very positive move,” selectman Margaret Serpa said. “I think all of us would be happy to see it happen. I hope you’re ready.”

Also Monday, selectman endorsed a plan for Chappy ferry owner Peter Wells to make repairs to the slip on the Chappaquiddick side. The plan still needs approval from the conservation commission.

The board voted unanimously, on the recommendation of the town’s procurement officer, to reject all bids submitted for replacement of the barn roof at Katama Farm.

“We have made the determination that it is in the public’s best interest, to reject all bids for this project,” said chairman Arthur Smadbeck. When the bids were opened at the July 14 meeting, six bids ranged from $74,100 to $179,800. Selectmen said they have not yet determined when they will re-issue a call for bids.