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Dining on-Island

Summertime treat - It's the berries!

By Kim Heath - July 26, 2007

One of the most reliable pleasures of summer on the Vineyard is the offering of Island-grown produce. Sitting on porch steps or sand chairs nibbling berries is part of the Island experience. Blueberries and strawberries: an old-fashioned bouquet of colors and flavors that summons memories of how things used to taste: succulent, freshly picked, and full of natural sweetness.

Tart
A berry tart that tastes as good as it looks. Photo by Kim Heath

There are many more ways to enjoy fresh berries than just as a dessert. One of my favorite summer breakfasts is shredded wheat with some combination of blueberries, strawberries, and peaches. Another is homemade granola (very easy to make, and you control the sugar and fat content) with plain yogurt and either kind of berry. A fun spin on a favorite is breakfast al fresco with layered blueberries, strawberries, and yogurt in a fancy glass.

For lunch or dinner, add some sliced strawberries to a bowl of salad greens, along with red onion and a vinaigrette. Strawberry soup is very refreshing on a dog day.

Here's a "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special" recipe: In a blender or food processor, combine two pints strawberries (washed, stemmed, quartered), 1/2 cup orange juice (or 1/4 cup O.J. and 1/4 cup Cointreau or other orange-flavored liquor), and 1 cup buttermilk. Add about 1/4 cup sugar, to taste. Serve at once or refrigerate.

When I'm home of an evening and just want that something sweet after dinner, I melt some chocolate chips or chunks of semi-sweet baking chocolate in the microwave (or in a little cup placed in a little pan of water on the stove), dip strawberries in the chocolate, and devour - fast, easy, and delicious - or dip strawberries in sour cream, then roll them in a bit of brown sugar. The healthier version, and the one I prefer, is to use plain yogurt and Sucanat (the less processed version of sugar).

Invent you own smoothies: just blend berries, yogurt, juice, and banana - you can't go wrong, with or without ice.

And it is one of the best guiltless pleasures. Strawberries and blueberries are two of the most nutritious fruits you can eat. In a comparison by Tufts University researchers of 40 fruits and vegetables that are high in antioxidants, blueberries ranked the highest. Third on the list were strawberries. Antioxidants are the good guys that go after the bad-boy free radicals - natural products of the body's metabolism. However, when the body is stressed by factors like aging, anxiety, pollution, or smoking, we need extra antioxidant help.

Blueberries and strawberries contain phytonutrients that may lower the risk of some cancers; promote health of the urinary tract; improve balance and coordination, as well as memory; improve vision and prevent macular degeneration; and work as anti-inflammatories. The more highly processed a food, the fewer phytonutrients will be found in that food. In other words, a blueberry-flavored fruit roll-up isn't going to give you the health benefits of a handful of fresh blueberries.

But getting back to healthier basics does not have to mean compromising flair or sophistication. The following recipes promise to delight the eye, taste, and dazzle summer guests.

Berry Frangipane Tart

Adapted from Linda Earnest in "Art in the Kitchen" 10 servings

1 recipe paté brisée (see below)
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1/3 cup plus 2 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 large eggs
1 cup slivered almonds, ground
6 ounces red currant jelly
1 tbsp. kirsch or Chambord (optional)
3 to 4 cups strawberries

Prepare the paté brisée. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Combine the butter, sugar, and vanilla in medium mixing bowl. Add eggs; mix well. Stir in almonds and mix well. Spread the frangipane in the prepared pastry shell.

Bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes or until set. Cool.

Melt the currant jelly in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the kirsch or Chambord. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce heat and simmer for one minute.

Brush some glaze over the cooled tart. Arrange the strawberries in a decorative pattern on the tart. Brush the berries with the rest of the glaze, to taste. Substitute raspberries or blueberries (about 2 cups of either) for the strawberries, or use a combination.

Paté Brisée

1 1/4 cups flour
1/4 tsp. salt
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, cold
2 tbsp. vegetable shortening, cold
5 tbsp. ice water

Combine flour and salt in medium bowl. Cut in the butter and shortening with a pastry blender or fork until the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add the ice water and mix until a dough forms.

Shape into a ball. Roll 1/8 inch thick on a floured surface. Fit into an 11-inch round tart pan with removable fluted rim. Prick the pastry with a fork in several places. Chill for 30 minutes.