Pumpkins, beauty on the inside

By JJ Gonson - October 25, 2007

All those gourds, grinning toothily from the porches and front steps on Island homes. All those fiery eyes and lopsided noses. Somehow, most of us forget that the pumpkin is actually a fresh vegetable, and reach for canned pumpkin to use in cooking. Those people don’t know what they are missing.

The simplest pumpkin recipe is to pulp the pumpkin, stir in a dollop of butter and some maple syrup or brown sugar, and serve it much the same way as you would a side dish of squash. You can also mix it into mashed potatoes as you would sweet potatoes.

Pulping pumpkin is a bit of a chore, but it is very well worth the extra effort. That lovely shade of orange is a giveaway that pumpkins are mega-loaded with lutein, alpha- and beta-carotene, nutrients that turn to vitamin A in the body. Pumpkin is also a good source of vitamin C, and is practically fat- and sodium-free.

The simplest way to pulp a pumpkin is to cut it in half, along the top and bottom seams. Remove the stem, and scoop out the pulp and seeds (set those seeds aside — we’ll get to them in a minute). Then place the halves, open side down, on an oiled baking sheet and bake, untouched, for about an hour at 350 degrees.

While the gourd is baking, separate the seeds from the pulp, which you can compost, or throw away. Toss them in olive oil, ground pepper and a nice, rough, sea salt, and toast them in the same oven until they are crisp and dry, stirring them periodically to make sure they aren’t sticking together. Depending on the amount you are toasting, this takes about 30 minutes. The healthy properties of pumpkin seeds have been investigated more and more recently. High in manganese, zinc, and other essential minerals, they are thought to promote prostate health and strong bones. So, when they are done, put them in a bowl, and enjoy a healthy snack while you are finishing the rest of your pumpkin recipes.

When you can pierce the skin of the pumpkin easily with a knife, take it out of the oven, allow it to cool down a bit, and then scoop out the soft flesh and mash it with a potato masher or ricer or in a food processor.

You can use it in muffins, cakes, and breads, and, of course, pies. But here’s a unique soup recipe that will surprise and delight your dining companions. Serve it with fresh cornbread for a warm lunch or light dinner

Mexican Pumpkin Soup:

1 large onion, chopped
5 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 jalapeño, seeded and diced
1 tbsp. oregano
1 tbsp. chopped cilantro
pinch of cayenne
several pinches of Old Bay spice
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
4 cups of vegetable or chicken broth
juice of 1/2 lime
drizzle of honey (or brown sugar)
2 cups of mashed pumpkin
2 cups of cooked, drained beans (black or red)
5 medium sized waxy potatoes (red or white), cubed
salt and pepper to taste
1/3 cup cream or milk (optional)
Cilantro to garnish

Heat olive oil in a large soup pot and sauté onion, garlic, jalapeño, and spices until fragrant. Then add all of the ingredients except for the milk and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes, or until the potatoes are fork tender. Off heat, stir in the cream or milk if you choose to use it, and serve warm with a sprig of fresh cilantro. If you don’t use milk you can also serve with lime wedges.

After all that talk of how healthy pumpkin is for you on its own, I’m going to toss it all out the window for this one. This is the recipe that my family clamors for from Thanksgiving though New Year’s. As a holiday dessert, this one can’t be beat.

Pumpkin Cheesecake:

Crust:

Mix one and one half cups graham cracker crumbs with one cup sugar, and moisten with one quarter cup of melted butter and enough heavy cream to pack into the bottom and one inch up the sides of a springform pan. Bake the crust at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes, or until it puffs up. Cool before filling.

Filling:

4 8-oz. pkgs. of cream cheese or Neufchatel at room temperature
1 cup sugar
4 eggs
1 cup pumpkin
1 tsp. vanilla
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. each nutmeg, ground clove, ginger, and allspice

Heat oven to 350 with a pan of water on rack at the bottom.

In a standing mixer, whip the cream cheese and sugar on high for 15 minutes, then add the eggs and mix well. Stir in the remaining ingredients and pour into the cooled springform pan.

Bake in center of oven for an hour, or until the cake is set at the outside but still slightly loose in the center. Turn the oven off and open the door several inches, allowing the cheesecake to cool slowly.

Chill for four hours before serving iced with plain sour cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon.

Store leftovers in fridge.

JJ Gonson is a private chef who operates Cuisine En Locale, an in-home dining service, in Cambridge. She comes to the Vineyard to cook and eat.