Best described as “contemporary comfort,” Lola’s has been an Oak Bluffs establishment for over 20 years. Since the ’90s, it’s been a proven spot for some of the best down-home comfort cooking on the Island. And rightfully so, with Kathy Lola at the helm. Before this interview, I had never met Miss Lola herself, but as soon as I did, it all made sense. It made sense that Lola’s was known for its fun events, as she’s one of the most energetic and upbeat ladies I’ve ever met. It made sense because she comes from a family that has worked and owned soul food restaurants. It made sense that I experienced some serious Southern hospitality when I visited.
Both Kathy Lola and I trained in New Orleans, so we bonded over how incredible that city is. My last trip there a couple of winters ago left me wanting to live in NOLA forever. I was pleased that some of the food on Lola’s menu is deeply rooted in the Creole and Cajun styles.
Lola’s new chef, Frank Bokuniewicz, has worked all over the world honing his culinary skills. This is his first season on the Vineyard. Lola’s seats up to 285 guests, which is not an easy crowd, but Frank is up to it. As the new chef, he has respected the established menu, as guests are always coming back for classics, and he has kept the signature dishes. At the same time, he’s giving a contemporary twist to other dishes. Whether it’s a cooking method or a new spice, his twists still keep the style of food very Southern, very comforting, and very Lola’s.
Start off with a cocktail like the Sunshine Kiss (prosecco, pineapple juice, and pomegranate liquor) or have a sip of their Mango Citrus Sangria. This season they are also offering wine flights, which give you a chance to discover new wines paired by region, style, varietal, or by the food you’re ordering.
Tasting some of their signature entrées was a long-overdue treat for me. Their Southern Fried Chicken and Waffles ($26) is a buttermilk-brined half-chicken and four Belgian deep-fried waffles served alongside a small cast-iron pan of warm maple syrup. Drizzle that sweet syrup over the crispy chicken and go to town. This isn’t the place to eat fried chicken with your fork and knife, so put them down and use your hands. You’ll be happy you did.
Another favorite was the Lola’s Baby Back Rib Dinner ($28), where the ribs are slathered and slow-braised in an incredible BBQ sauce that’s literally finger-licking good, and served alongside collard greens cooked with bacon and a sweet potato, pecan, and marshmallow brûlée: a sweet potato topped with candied, crunchy pecans and coated in torched marshmallow.
For the pork lovers, order a Bone-In Double-Cut Pork Chop ($34). Nothing makes me happier than a juicy pork chop, and this one from Niman Ranch is stellar. Glazed with a honey habanero sauce and served with black-eyed peas that are simmered and cooked with smoked pork belly, it’s double the pork fun. Alongside the beans, you also get split corn dressed Mexican-style with a slathering of mayonnaise and herbs.
If you’re looking for seafood, order the Pan-Seared Scallops ($39), served with a creamy, lobster-packed mashed potato, asparagus, and topped with a lobster claw and saffron cream. There’s nothing Southern about it, but it’s the perfect dish for a special occasion.
Whether you’re a local or just here for the weekend and craving some delicious Southern food, Lola’s is the place to be. They serve dinner every night starting at 5 pm, but they also host a buck-a-shuck from 4 to 7 pm daily. Brunch is served from 10 am until 1:30 pm on Sundays, and there’s music and entertainment every night starting at 9:30. Call 508-693-6093 for reservations, or visit lolasmv.com.
