One way to chronicle the passing of time is through fashion — the perpetual changing of styles to accommodate the needs and tastes of each decade. In a new book, “American Style and Spirit: Fashions and Lives of the Roddis Family, 1850-1995,” one upper-middle-class family’s collection of clothing, fastidiously preserved throughout the course of a century and a half, is presented not just as a visual history but as a reflection of changing times in America.
In 2014, Jane Bradbury donated to the Henry Ford in Dearborn, Mich., the bulk of her aunt
Augusta Roddis’ huge clothing collection, amassed over the decades by women in her family. The Henry Ford is a cultural destination comprising a museum, a historic village, a Ford factory tour, and a giant screen theater. The conglomerate is described as “an institution that focuses on American material culture and innovation.”
The Henry Ford will launch a five-month exhibit of the impressive collection with an opening on Nov. 5. Experts in the field of archival clothing were very impressed with the range of the collection, noting in the book that it’s quite rare to find such an extensive treasure trove of preserved clothing, especially an accumulation from a family that was neither extraordinarily rich nor celebrated.
Ms. Bradbury originally brought the collection to her home in Edgartown (she splits her time between the Vineyard and London). All conservation work and photography was done on-Island before the clothing was donated to the Henry Ford. About a third of the collection will remain in Ms. Bradbury’s Island home. She notes that when she goes into the studio where the collection is stored, she is always reminded of her aunt Augusta and the lovely Dutch Colonial Revival home in Wisconsin which was built for the Roddis family in 1912 and inhabited by many successive generations.
“American Style and Spirit,” a beautifully photographed coffee table book, was published earlier this year in an effort to introduce a new audience to the Roddis Collection. The Roddis family exhibit includes more than 200 perfectly preserved garments and accessories, complemented by archival objects, family photographs, and letters spanning almost 150 years. The book is packed with evocative descriptions of the garments’ original owners, when the clothes were made or bought; and where they were worn.
Throughout the 300-plus pages of “American Style and Spirit,” the reader is presented with full-color photos of many of the pieces, along with images of mementos that Roddis family members saved over the years. These include loads of photos, invitations to parties, clippings of old newspaper and magazine advertisements, sewing patterns, and fashion sketches. The additional material provides a further glimpse into the past.
The book also recounts the story of the Roddis family through a thorough researching of family letters and other written documents.
With all of these materials, the book’s two authors, Jane Bradbury and Edward Maeder, have pieced together a family history that covers half of the 19th century, two World Wars, and the Great Depression, up until the 1990s. The family history is presented as a narrative that includes quotes and other source material.
Since the book focuses on fashion, many of the direct quotes detail the various Roddis women’s wardrobes — including the search for the perfect ensemble and the occasion to which a particular item was worn. But the story also includes the rise of the family’s business (a lumber and veneer company) and the effects of the political and social climate on the firm’s success. The history is one of a hard-working, close-knit family whose values, including education for both men and women, were maintained throughout the years.
Of course, the clothes are the main draw. Even those well-versed in vintage clothing will be
fascinated by some of the very unique items that have survived over the years. Among the collection are a striking full-length chiffon evening dress from the 1920s in a very artistic stripes and roses pattern, a 1930s red tailored dress with a fur trimmed fly-away lapel that gives the dress an interesting art deco look, and a glamorous full-length ermine-trimmed black velvet evening coat with hood from the 1940s. Other charming examples of couture fashion include a multitiered silk taffeta evening gown with an enormous purple bow spotlighting the back view, a golfing dress with coordinated capelet from the 1940s, a 1950s tailored houndstooth women’s suit with loads of interesting detail, and a 1940s flirty day dress in a whimsical figures and flower print. The pieces run the gamut from casual wear to party and special-occasion dresses. There are even a few examples of men’s and children’s clothes. The attractive book will provide fashionistas with plenty of page-turning pleasure.
Also included in the pages are descriptions of a few designers, many of whom have been long forgotten although popular in their day. The book is a very informative read for those with an interest in the history of fashion.
A fun book to peruse, “American Style and Spirit” is also a unique look at the lives of an ordinary Midwestern family as chronicled through many generations.
A quote by Hamish Bowles, international editor-at-large of Vogue, that is included in the introduction will give readers a good idea of the appeal of “American Style and Spirit”: “The Roddis family collection is an especially moving document of living history. The garments and the accessories in the collection — remarkably preserved, and remarkable for their depth and range — hold up a mirror to the lives and aspirations of generations of a fascinating Middle American family, bringing both gala events and everyday lives into vivid perspective.”
To learn more, visit americanstyleandspirit.com.