Led by developer Sam Dunn of Dunn Family LLC, the Ocean Club restaurant opened this summer in the newly developed Stone Bank Condominium in Vineyard Haven — a 2,680-square-foot architectural beauty. Inspired by the 1980s venue of the same name, the new Ocean Club blends fine dining, outstanding hospitality, and an intimate atmosphere.
The restoration of the building preserved many historic elements, including its grand domed ceiling, stained-glass clerestory arches, mahogany doors, and a stainless-steel bank vault, repurposed as a wine room and communal dining centerpiece. Island photographer Alison Shaw’s photos hang on the walls, and the stained-glass windows create dazzling streaks of turquoise, yellow, and green light that dances throughout the space.
“What makes us unique is our detailed, thoughtful service, and our chef, Marc Orfaly, who is a James Beard awardwinner. His cooking background includes Mediterranean, African, Spanish, Armenian — his meals are amazing,” said general manager Tyler Shapiro.
My coworker Nicole Galland and I went to check it out. I had had the opportunity to walk through the old bank before renovation began. There hadn’t been much onsite save a lonely ladder and the omnipresent vault door, standing center stage. I was very curious to see the final results. Since Galland grew up on the Island, she felt dubious at first.
“I walked in with a bit of a chip on my shoulder, because I used that bank as a kid — my family’s safety deposit box was there,” she said. “I confess to being won over. I love the vault table being used as the underpinning for a banquet table at the front.”
The Ocean Club’s website shares a little about the journey of repurposing the vault door. “The vault door weighed 9,000 pounds, and to move it a mere 10 feet required the custom construction of a massive steel gantry crane on tracks inside the restaurant. After the job, the crane was disassembled, likely never to be used again.”
Like the interior, the Ocean Club menu was intriguing. Options included Mezze choices like Za’atar Crusted Focaccia, Tuna Crudo, Shrimp Cocktail, and more. The main entrées included Sicilian-Style Anchovy Pasta, Biryani Lobster, Crab Meat–Stuffed Chicken Breast. And if all these options weren’t enough to satisfy a hungry diner, side dishes include Sautéed Spinach, Roasted Fingerlings, Crab Fried Rice, Garden Farm Tomatoes, and Blistered Shishito Peppers.
Galland ordered the Tuna Poke Bowl with hijiki, sushi rice, Dijon pickles, and Old Bay aioli. “That truly was the best tuna poke bowl I’ve ever eaten,” she said. “It was gorgeous to look at, everything tasted fantastic, and the combinations of textures were exquisite –– like a happy marriage of rustic foraged food and haute couture.”
I chose A Love Letter to Paris, which consisted of baked halibut, ratatouille vegetables, bouillabaisse vinaigrette, and tomato confit. The halibut was tender, and there was something — either the vegetables or the tomato confit (clearly I am not a cook) — that added a tiny bite of heat, which paired perfectly with the mild delicacy of the fish. Usually I go home with leftovers, but this dish was so tasty, there wasn’t a morsel left.
Though the club is considered high-end dining, the vibe was casual and warm. The people sitting next to us struck up a conversation, and even offered us a taste of their Falling Chocolate Cake with Raspberry Coulis dessert. We joyfully accepted and dove in. It was incredibly rich and decadent, and though I was utterly satiated, if I hadn’t been in polite company, I might have (OK, I would have) licked the plate clean.
As with many Island eateries, the hours of the Ocean Club will vary seasonally. “Right now the restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday, but we will be going to seven days, hopefully by next summer,” Shapiro said. The club is also going to include a raw bar as part of its future plans, and though it serves dinner only currently, it hopes to open for lunch in the near future.
The Ocean Club offers an equity-based membership model, which gives members a stake in both the real estate and the business. Members will have a voice in the club’s operations, and priority access to reservations for themselves and their guests.
For information on membership and reservations, visit oceanclubmcv.com. Hours: 3 to 5 pm (bar and limited menu), 5 to 10 pm for full dinner service. Reservations can be made at opentable.com.
