The new and the old – Island chefs spill the New Year’s beans

Best dishes of 2014, and what’s up for 2015.

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Peter Smyth, chef and owner of Slice of Life in Oak Bluffs. — Photo by Kelsey Perrett

The end of the year is, traditionally, a time to ponder the past and strategize for the future. We asked some of our favorite on-Island executive chefs to talk to us about years gone by and what they have planned for the next. Here’s what we learned.

What’s the best new dish you made all year?

A basil pesto crusted local codfish elevated on a vegetable fused tri-colored orzo pasta with heirloom tomato ragout and grilled baby summer squash. The basil, tomatoes, and summer squash were from our garden.

– James McDonough, Lambert’s Cove Inn, Farm & Restaurant, West Tisbury

Laksa! A dish indigenous to Singapore. A coconut based noodle soup with fish, vegetables, hard-boiled egg, laced with chili paste.

– Ron “Puppy” Cavallo, Soigne, Edgartown

Seared Edgartown bay scallops with toasted farro, roasted Morning Glory Farm sweet potatoes, and MV Organics sunflower shoots. It’s a nice local seasonal dish we put together to utilize some cold weather ingredients found on Island.

– Justin Melnick, The Terrace at the Charlotte Inn, Edgartown

Fun and memorable was the open-faced pulled pork sandwich I had on the Black Sheep Luncheonette menu this winter. I served it on cranberry steamed pudding (brown bread steamed in a coffee can) with avocado and chipotle crema with slaw.

– Judy Klumick, Black Sheep, Edgartown

We introduced a salmon salad this year that we are very proud of. The salmon is poached in mirin and served with baby spinach, avocado, pickled radishes, wasabi peas, and a housemade unagi glaze.

– Merrick Carreiro, Little House Café, Vineyard Haven

The chickpea crepes with eggplant relish. The crepe is savory and warm with a bright citrus relish inside. It is delicious.

– Doug Smith, Lucky Hank’s, Edgartown

An hors d’oeuvre we have butler passed for our Christmas parties and soon to be on the menu:  crispy fried shrimp marinated in Poppin’ Pink lemonade. It’s light and delicate. We’ve had more response about this than any other.

– Tony Saccoccia, The Grill on Main, Edgartown

I’ve been playing around with pizza dough and different dessert ideas.

– Pete Smyth, Slice of Life, Oak Bluffs

Are you inventing anything new for the new year?

When we reopen the week of January 5th, expect to see our newly developed hot cereal on the breakfast menu. This isn’t just your ordinary run-of-the-mill oatmeal or porridge — it is something in the middle, Little House style.

– Merrick Carreiro

We will be reconstructing the traditional Cuban sandwich in honor of the lifting of the embargo.

– Puppy Cavallo

I would like to work on some healthy and vegan desserts this year as so many ingredients for desserts can be very healthy and delicious at the same time. Ingredients like beets, cocoa powder, coconut oil, and dried fruits, to name a few.

– Tony Saccoccia

We generally stay away from “inventing” too many new things, but rather putting a twist on some of the classics.

– Justin Melnick

What ingredient might you start using that you haven’t yet?

One new ingredient I’ll have the great fortune to create with this coming season is fresh goat milk from our two farm goats, Zsa Zsa and Ava.

– James McDonough

I will start to use rennet to make my own cheeses in-house in an artisanal style. I would like to explore some of the European traditions even though there are great cheeses made in the U.S. today.

– Tony Saccoccia

Galangal — a root in the ginger family. I can use it to make fresh chili paste. I will be incorporating more Southeast Asian dishes in our repertoire.

– Puppy Cavallo

Do you have a culinary New Year’s resolution?

Continue to learn and improve.

– Doug Smith

We are looking to add a packaged food line to our offerings this year: salads, soups, granola, etc.

Slow down my cooking at home. I tend to bring my cooking pace home.

– Merrick Carreiro

To eliminate any product containing iodized salt. For years we have only used sea salt in our own preparation.

– Puppy Cavallo

What are you making for New Year’s Eve or New Year’s Day?

We are serving a five-course Prix Fixe menu with a choice of options in each course such as house-cured gravlax with osetra caviar, lentils and sausage soup, wild shrimp cocktail. Butter poached sole, beef Wellington. My wife, Emily, will be putting together a vanilla panna cotta as well as her signature chocolate tart.

– Justin Melnick

I will be cooking at home for my family for New Year’s Eve. I’ll be starting with crab cakes with saffron aioli hummus with vegetables and pita chips, lead into a mixed greens salad with a black mission fig vinaigrette, candied pecans, goat cheese, and baby tomatoes and as entrees I’ll make a marinated sirloin roast, Merlot demi, roast turkey, sushi platters, rosemary Yukon gold potatoes, and sautéed mixed vegetables. For dessert we’ll have apple pie with vanilla bean gelato, quad cake, peppermint bark, and a variety of Christmas cookies.

– James McDonough

New Year’s Eve to me screams surf-n-turf and chocolate. I don’t know why but I’m sure I’m not alone. Could be the decadence.

– Tony Saccoccia

Linguine with fresh cockles! It’s a New Year’s tradition.

– Puppy Cavallo

I plan not to cook at all this New Year’s and allow others to cook for me. There is nothing better than sitting back and enjoying a good meal I had nothing to do with.

– Merrick Carreiro

New Year’s Eve is classic and elegant. We’ll be serving beef tenderloin and local bay scallops, profiteroles, and flourless chocolate cake for dessert.

– Pete Smyth

We’ll have a veal dish and duck confit.

– Doug Smith

What was the best New Year’s Eve you’ve ever had?

Two years ago, my friend, Stelianie, came to visit. We had dinner in my new restaurant followed by fireworks over the water near the lighthouse.

– Doug Smith

On the eve of 1981, my wife, Dede, and I were invited to the home of the head CIA operative in the Mediterranean, stationed in Athens, Greece. An American home away from home for two road-weary travelers trekking the continents.

– Puppy Cavallo

I had New Year’s off three years ago. My wife, daughter, and I had a variety of small plates we created together and then watched a movie. At midnight, we woke my daughter and we watched the Edgartown fireworks from our driveway.

– Pete Smyth

I remember when I was old enough to work the line as a cook on New Year’s Eve. It was a time when I was proud to finally be recognized and respected as a cook.

– Tony Saccoccia

The best New Year’s Day was 1994-1995. I was the chef at the time at Hotel 1829 in St. Thomas. We had a great night in the restaurant. Food quality was high, there was a good flow to the service. We finished the night serving over 200 hundred people! But the night kept getting better. Arriving home just before midnight, I kissed my beautiful Mary goodnight and fell asleep. One hour later Mary’s water broke and I called our midwife Linda who arrived in a flash. At 4:38 am, New Year’s Day, our son Patrick was born. What a magical birth!

– James McDonough