“Honest food, simply prepared with love, will outlive any trend,” Chef Noel Middleton says — and I wholeheartedly agree. Mr. Middleton is the new executive chef at the Dunes (formerly Lure), located at the Winnetu Oceanside Resort. He worked his way up the ranks by way of French mentors and chefs, and now has settled into working the line on-Island. But it’s not his first island. After spending years as the food and beverage manager at their sister property, the Nantucket Hotel, Chef Middleton has island-hopping down pat.
Before he ever set foot on the East Coast, his roots formed in California. In Los Angeles, he was raised in a family of farmers, where his love for food and cooking grew. Like most executive chefs, he’s worked all positions in a restaurant — bartender, butcher, server, dishwasher — and this makes him a well-rounded leader. He says cooking is one of the only positions where background checks don’t really matter. All that matters is that you can follow instructions, work under pressure, and get the food out.
His travels have taken him around the United States, and his interest in food culture has made him into a food historian, exploring the culinary background of each city he visits. In New Orleans, he learned how closely intertwined food and culture could be. His neighbors in NOLA would walk up to him with a freshly caught fish, or a bowl of rice and beans. This “breaking bread” experience informs his cooking, and you can see it in the new menu at the Dunes restaurant.
With a focus on fresh seafood and simple preparations, Chef Middleton has created a songbook of foods that cater to today’s desires. This includes a responsibility to provide healthy options, even when guests are on vacation. There’s a new look to the kids’ menu, with smaller portions of full meals instead of the classic fried foods. His style, best described as light, fresh, contemporary American coastal cuisine, can be seen throughout the menu. The Winnetu is also adding a new menu to their pool grill area, with lighter options for families to enjoy.
Before ending our interview, I had to ask the inevitable question all chefs hate: What would be your last meal? Chef Middleton’s response was true to his love of culinary history: “It would have to be a Moroccan or North African meal composed of spiced lamb tagine, harissa, and flatbreads. There’s something special about the story of Africa and how its food showcases that history. Pair it with a ginger soda, and I’m set!”
The Dunes at the Winnetu is currently open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday. Call 508-627-3663 for reservations and more information.