The English are here

Celebrating Chilmark Friendship Day.

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Chilmark library director Ebba Hierta, center, holds a copy of Jo Scott’s, left, book of photographs of Chilmark, England presented to the library by Scott and her husband, Mike Scott. —Valerie Sonnenthal

A little over a month prior to a planned arrival, the library and I heard from Mike Scott, “Deputy Editor/Treasurer of the Chilmark Village Voice published in Chilmark, England, 10 times a year (back copies can be viewed on chilmarkvillagevoice.co.uk) and distributed to all houses in the village.” Turns out Mike’s wife Jo suggested they check out Chilmark, since they’d already planned to be on Cape Cod, and they managed to squeeze in a day trip between Provincetown and Boston on the way to visit their son, who’d moved to New York City in January. They came on a morning ferry, seas a bit choppier than expected, from Falmouth to Oak Bluffs, picked up a rented car, and drove themselves up to the Chilmark library along a strikingly scenic sunny South Road vista.

It turned out on the morning of their visit that no one had been assigned to write their story, so I jumped in. I left my house without a minute to spare and ended up behind a very slow truck filled with fresh dirt, arriving six or so minutes late to a packed parking lot and subsequently full community room. This meant I missed the exchange of our declaration of Oct. 5 as Friendship Day between our two towns, and the greeting received from the parishioners of St. Margaret’s Church, Chilmark, Wiltshire, England, introductions having been made by Chilmark library director Ebba Hierta, and presentations between selectmen Warren Doty and Bill Rossi and Mike and Jo Scott. Everyone stood in front of a lovely image of the Chilmark manor house, with its accenting flowers in full bloom.

Jo Scott brought a photobook she made of their Chilmark, and donated it to our library, which will be receiving a PDF of the book for those interested. I suggested they make it a print-on-demand book so anyone could get their own hard copy. I’ll keep you posted on that one. There was a display of historic town photographs on book stands, along with an Indian Hill Press 1995 copy of local poet John Maloney’s “Town of Chilmark” donated for the guests. After the official address, everyone was invited to enjoy Larsen’s mini lobster rolls and smoked bluefish dip, Grey Barn and other cheeses, hot New England Clam Chowder, Chilmark Chocolates and a Black Dog carrot cake, besides Chilmark Coffee. We can thank the Friends of the Chilmark Library and the Chilmark Historical Commission for donations of food and gifts as well as John Maloney, Candy Shweder, and thanks to the library staff.

It turns out the English Chilmark will be celebrating its 400th year in July 2019. Jane Slater may be leading a small delegation to the celebration, so contact her if you’re interested. Chilmark is about 10 miles west of Stonehenge, and Bath is only “three-quarters of a mile away,” and the area remains “very rural.” After some brief remarks, Ebba invited everyone to enjoy lunch, and the room broke out in conversation. When I finally met our English guests, I had the opportunity to be shown the book of Chilmark photographs by creator Jo Scott. When Mike Scott pointed out a monument noting the name Macey, I brought Jill Macy over to see the photo. Mike had no idea when he’d been speaking to her that she was a Macy. Mike and Jo Scott probably had a chance to speak with nearly everyone in the room before everything quieted down.

I had promised them a brief tour of some local Chilmark sights. One of the places they wanted to stop was Chilmark Chocolates, closed during their visit, so I picked up four quarter-pound boxes for them to bring home as gifts. As promised, I gave them an extremely truncated tour by first insisting they see the artwork and historical photos in our library. Ebba joined us and led the way. It was a surprise to learn our sister Chilmark does not have a library, nor do the local libraries, “about half the size of one room” in our library, convey local history, so they were quite surprised by the art, photographs, and connection between people and place here.

After Ebba completed their tour, Lucy Vincent was our first stop. “Wow!” was their reaction. I explained how much erosion I’ve seen since moving here, which is vast. Their Chilmark is about one and a half hours from the sea. Somehow they were surprised by the Island, this place of ours, not how they imagined it. We went to Menemsha’s Creekville Gallery and store under Suzie Pacheco’s eye. They loved getting the artists’ views of this place over time. We moved the cars to the Home Port lot and walked past the Galley and out toward the Coast Guard station, coming back and going over the hill, seeing the beacon of Gay Head Light, then looking out over Menemsha Harbor, two lines of fishing vessels and charter boats tied along the docks. Folks sitting and eating their lunch behind both fish stores. We walked the dock to Menemsha Beach and back in front of all the stores. We stopped into Menemsha Market before heading for Peaked Hill. After that they went on their way back to O.B., to return their rental car and catch a breather before another windy boat ride.

 

Virginia Jones of Fo’c’sle Locker suggested two books relating to the history of Chilmark, England — “Nadder: Tales of a Wiltshire Valley” by Rex Sawyer, and “A Tale of Two Chilmarks: England and New England” by Iona Sinclair. Both books are easily available from AbeBooks.com. “Nadder” is now available at the Chilmark library thanks to a donation by the Scotts (no relation to our Chilmark Scott family, as far as we know).