In the captain’s chair

Square Rigger offers simple cuisine made well for this Times family.

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Edgartown’s Square Rigger is a throwback to the coastal restaurants you might remember from your childhood. The kind of restaurant where you could get a warm loaf of bread and a ramekin of butter ahead of your meal; where the waitstaff was genuinely friendly, and the entrées were simple, ample, and good.

The Times’ dine team put the Square Rigger to the test with our toughest critic, 7-year-old Electra Saltzberg. The Square Rigger got decoration points right off the bat as Electra, seated in a captain’s chair, marveled at the rope inlay and the brass ship’s wheel set into our table. Shortly after Electra went to work on a tall cranberry juice, a loaf of bread on a cutting board came to our table ($6). Electra doesn’t like bread crust, but when this bread was buttered, she gobbled up the whole slice without pause.

While Electra blissfully noshed on bread, her parents received salads. This reporter enjoyed a crisp garden salad with homemade balsamic vinaigrette. Electra’s mom, Amanda, enjoyed a Caesar salad which she gave high marks.

The Square Rigger has a variety of seafood options, but Electra was in a more carnivorous frame of mind, and ordered prime rib bites with mashed potatoes ($23). Her mother ordered Faroe Islands salmon with béarnaise sauce ($36), and this reporter ordered fish and chips ($35). Electra found the buttery mashed potatoes that came with her prime rib bites to be so delicious, we had to demand she stop scooping with her fingers and use a spoon. Her comment about the prime rib bites: “Super-yummy.”

Try as we might, we could not get Electra to eat her green beans. This reporter commandeered those beans, and found they had a nice flavor and crunch that’s often lacking in restaurant green beans.

Amanda described her salmon as “cooked to perfection,” and her mashed potatoes as “sinful.”

This reporter found the coleslaw accompanying his fish and chips to be not too creamy and wonderfully flavorful. The fried fish wasn’t overly battered, and very tasty overall. Electra pirated several of this reporter’s french fries.

“This is such a good dinner,” Electra said, while pilfering more french fries.

When dessert time came, we were all too full to have individual desserts, so we opted to dig three spoons into crème brûlée ($11).

Electra was speechless. She’d never had crème brûlée, and probably would have planted her face into the dish. This reporter liked the berry garnish, found the caramelized sugar delicious and the custard lovely.

Electra hadn’t finished all her prime rib bites in the restaurant, so we took them to go. She doesn’t always cozy up to leftovers. However, Electra had the prime rib bites for lunch the next day and continued to find them as tasty as she did the night before.

 

1 COMMENT

  1. Square Rigger- Thank you for decades of consistently delicious meals and outstanding table service! I’ve always been greeted by a genuinely warm & friendly hostess. My favorite Island dining, especially when celebrating a special occasion!

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