It all started in 1288, when Queen Isabel of Aragon married King Denis of Portugal. Isabel devoted herself to serving the community by feeding the poor, against her husband’s wishes. The queen sold the jewels off her crown to buy food without the king knowing. One day, the king followed her to town, and asked what she was hiding. Scared of his punishment, Isabel tucked the bread into the folds of her dress and told him she had roses. When the king demanded she show him, she opened her dress and, miraculously, roses appeared.
More than 700 years later, last weekend, the Holy Ghost Association of Martha’s Vineyard at the Portuguese-American Club held the annual Feast of the Holy Ghost, one of many feasts held around the world to honor Queen Isabel and her commitment to community. On Saturday night, the P.A. Club welcomed Portuguese, Americans, and everyone in between to enjoy food, drinks, games, music, and a live auction. On Sunday morning, a parade processed through Oak Bluffs and over Vineyard Avenue, followed by free sopa at the P.A. Club to continue Queen Isabel’s traditions.
The feast has long and deep historical roots in mainland Portugal and the Azores, but for the past 100 years the feast has also been an important staple in the Island’s summer calendar. Mostly attended by local Island residents, many people out Saturday night commented that their favorite part of the feast is catching up with people who they might not see for the rest of the summer.
If the tradition and the people weren’t enough of a draw, the food truly was nothing short of a feast, with everything from little necks to full caçoila dinners and malasadas, Azorean fried dough. Dr. George Santos and his sons carried on their family tradition of grilling shish kabobs over coal, something his grandfather started a hundred years ago. When ordering, feasters were asked to keep an eye on their meat while it sizzled, and remind the Santoses to turn their kebabs over in seven minutes. “If it’s undercooked, we can help you. If it is overcooked, you’re on your own,” explained Dr. Santos.
The fun did not stop with the food, though, as kids and adults found entertainment for hours in the P.A. Club parking lot. Carnival games were stationed behind the food booths, with prizes for all ages. The Jelly Roll Horns played music, only taking breaks between sets for the live auction of Portuguese sweet bread and lobsters. Lucky feasters could go to sleep with a new stuffed animal and wake up to french toast and lobster scrambled eggs for breakfast.
The P.A. Club does a lot for the local community, in addition to providing a gathering place for locals during the winter. Every year, the P.A. Club gives out tens of thousands of dollars in educational scholarships, as well as supporting other fundraisers and community events throughout the year. The feast is the only event of the year that raises funds for the P.A. Club itself. Thanks to, and in honor of, Queen Isabel, the feast is an annual celebration of community, giving back, and good food.
As an added bonus, try this recipe for malasadas.
Annie Kelly’s Malasadas
Written by Nata Matell, given with permission from her daughter, Silvia Matell.
1⅓ cup evaporated milk
1⅓ cup water
⅓ cup butter or margarine
1 tsp. salt
⅓ cup sugar
1 package dry yeast
8 eggs
1 Tbsp. lemon or anise flavor
8 cups flour
Scald milk with water, butter, salt, and 2 teaspoons of sugar. Let cool to warm and add yeast to dissolve. Beat eggs well; add remainder of sugar, and flavoring, then add milk, water, yeast mixture and also 4 cups flour. Beat well. Add rest of flour, 1 cup at a time, and beat well.
Put in containers and freeze, or let rise once, covered lightly in a warm place. Spoon to floured board; with floured hands, pat flat and stretch. Drop into hot fat until golden brown, turn over and brown on the other side. Shake in a bag with granulated sugar while still hot.
Note: If the batter is too soft to handle, add more flour (not more than two cups). Makes about 40, depending on size.
