On the evening of Saturday, Nov. 2, at the Aquinnah Cultural Center, people gathered to partake in Día de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead. Día de los Muertos is celebrated in honor of Mictēcacihuātl, queen of Mictlān (the underworld). Jose Sanabria, who is from Mexico and came to the Vineyard 32 years ago, led the festivities. I say festivities, because this holiday is not somber. Folks attending took it seriously, but that reverence reflected a sense of respect, not doom and gloom.
People brought photographs of their late loved ones — pets included — and set them on the ofrenda (an offering altar) which was beautifully decorated with flowers and candles. The ages of the people in the photographs varied from very young children to the elderly. Seeing the images of all those people together — some in frames, some not — was quite moving, and I wanted to know the stories of each person’s life. I had intended to bring a photo of my late mother, but I wasn’t sure what to expect, and I didn’t feel quite ready to share her in some way. Instead, I held her image in my mind and heart.
People gathered in the living room, caught up, and talked amongst themselves about their loved ones. Sanabria then invited us all outside to the back patio. It was a chilly night, and the sky was on fire in Aquinnah’s unique and stunning way. Its pinks, golds, and oranges added the most spectacular backdrop. Sanabria stood in the center of those attending, while a woman burned copal incense in a pot. Copal incense is used for many things, including removing energy blocks and calming the nervous system, as well as helping spirits find their way to the ofrenda.
Sanabria began the ceremony by explaining a little about what the Day of the Dead represents. He shared that it isn’t about celebrating death per se, but a way of honoring our loved ones’ next journey, and about focusing on our lives while we’re alive — what we leave behind us for the next generation, and about what we’re doing in our lives, not what we collect.
Sanabria started off by blowing into an atecocolli, a shell that sounds like a horn, traditionally used in the ceremony to invite the spirits. He then took up a cup with the burning copal, the smoke dancing out of the top. He held it up to the sky, and then walked around the circle of people, and one by one, allowed the smoke to engulf our heads and faces. The crowd was silent, and I felt a strong sense of connection, even among those I didn’t know. Musician Peter Halperin of Woodstove Studios played recordings of beautiful traditional Mexican music that would play at Day of the Dead celebrations.
At the end, Sanabria acknowledged a number of people, including the Wampanoag tribe, who welcomed the ceremony to be held on sacred land, Halperin, and many others. Then
Sanabria invited us all to go back inside to imbibe Mexican hot chocolate made with dark chocolate and hot water, with touches of hot chilis and cinnamon. There was also a sweet bread called pan de muertos, and cookies. The bread was soft and delicious, and the hot cocoa warmed us all. As is customary worldwide, it seems, everyone gathered in the kitchen to partake. The conversations were lively, and even though many of those in attendance were missing their loved ones, there was a sense of joy in the room. Walking back to my car, I felt as if my mother were walking right beside me, and decided that next year, I’ll bring her photo.
