Entering Alchemy Bistro and Bar on a dark winter night, you are greeted by the warmth of the interior, with its twinkling lights and garlands of pine wreaths. I have been there many times, and have never been disappointed. While my companion Nancy and I were seated on the ground floor, the upstairs has the feel of an old-fashioned men’s club. You can sit at a table for two by the cozy fireplace, or have a private party for up to 50 guests.
The restaurant is owned by businessman Todd Dagres and Executive Chef Christopher Stam. Stam creates exciting, seasonally changing menus using locally sourced ingredients, complemented by international accents that go well beyond the commonplace.
Wine director Meaghan Robinson, who has won several awards from Wine Spectator magazine, has created cocktails and mocktails that have earned Alchemy the award for Best Cocktails on Martha’s Vineyard.
Nancy and I each ordered drinks under the category of “No Buzz.” Nancy had the Off-Season Spritz, made with blood orange purée, ginger beer, simple syrup, and a hint of nutmeg. She thought it was refreshing — so had I, on a previous occasion. I ordered the Dry Detox, composed of pomegranate juice, ginger purée, and grapefruit. It was an outstanding combination of sweet and tart ingredients that set the stage for the delicious meal.
For a first course, Nancy ordered the Jonah Crab and Grilled Asparagus Salad — a legacy dish that has been on the menu since the restaurant began. I have had it many times for lunch. The mound of romaine lettuce, infused with an herbed vinaigrette dressing, is enhanced by the inclusion of breadcrumbs, which add a crunchy note. Nancy brought home half of it for lunch the next day.
I had the Hand-Cut Yellowfin Tuna Tartare. The silky fish is mixed with crème fraîche, and sits on a crispy potato latke topped with chives and caviar. It was truly decadent –– beautiful to the eye as well as to the palate.
Nancy’s main course, the Cracker-Crusted Cod, was cooked to perfection with clam stuffing, bacon, and a generous serving of mushrooms sitting on a pool of chowder cream. The flaky fish was tender, and the bacon gave it a smoky flavor that contrasted with the other ingredients in taste and texture.
I had the Roasted Boneless Half-Chicken. I was reminded of a story that my husband told me of having lunch with his boss Jim at a swanky French restaurant in Manhattan in the early ’70s. Jim’s regular table awaited them, and when Gaston asked him what he usually ate there, Jim replied, “I like to order the roast chicken, because I like to see how they turn a $2.95 bird into a $35 dollar revenue producer.” Prices have gone up a lot since the 1970s. The $48 Alchemy chicken was well worth the price, since I took more than half of it home, and had two other meals from it. I normally don’t like the white meat, because in the wrong hands it can be very dry. Here it was cooked perfectly, and served atop a mixture of wild and white rice, haricots verts, and arugula, and smothered in a lemony pan gravy. It was a succulent success.
For dessert, Nancy had the Caramel Flan. The baked custard sat on a disk of chocolate sponge cake, and was topped with whipped cream and candied orange zest. A few fresh raspberries completed the plate. It was delicious.
I had the seasonal favorite –– Bûche de Noël, a flourless chocolate roll filled with eggnog cream and topped with Nutella and chocolate ganache. It was decorated with a swirl of raspberry coulis and fresh raspberries. It is difficult for the home cook to create, since there are so many elements to making it look like a yule log. I once made it and decorated it with meringue mushrooms, which was not a simple task.
My three courses were on the prix fixe menu; ordering them separately from the regular dinner menu would have added $16 to the bill.
I highly recommend Alchemy for special occasions, or just when you want to treat yourself to an excellent dining experience.
Alchemy Bistro and Bar is located at 71 Main St. in Edgartown; 508-627-9999, and is on its winter break, reopening on Feb. 13. To learn more, visit its website, alchemyedgartown.com.
