A velvety fog initially blanketed the stunning view of the land, beach, and water from right outside the Aquinnah Cultural Center (ACC) as we began our guided walking tour, “Aquinnah Wampanoag History in Perspective.” The program immerses participants in the knowledge and history of the first peoples of Noepe (Martha’s Vineyard). It should be on the bucket list for every Vineyarder and visitor alike.
The program is the brainchild of Jannette Vanderhoop, a board member, and former program director of the ACC when it opened in 2006: “This was something I dreamt up for three years. What I wanted was to tell our stories, because they are place-based.”
Vanderhoop filled the one-hour walking tour with evocative stories, history, and anecdotes, steeping us in Wampanoag culture, experiences, and beliefs. The following taste will hopefully whet your appetite to attend the program, which occurs Wednesdays at 4:30 pm through August 20.
Vanderhoop began by addressing the weather. “What we Wampanoag believe is that the fog is Moshup smoking his pipe, which is very comforting to us,” she said. “Moshup, a giant, was the father of the Wampanoag people. This story is 10,000 years old, the geological record we have for native people on the Island. Because there was fighting on the mainland, Moshup decided to bring his 12 sons and 12 daughters to Martha’s Vineyard. As he grew weary, he dragged his big toe. When Moshup stopped at the Island, the water filled in where he had dragged his toe, and separated Martha’s Vineyard from the mainland.” Vanderhoop continued, “To us, Moshup was real. In my mind he was probably a great leader and possibly a tall man. They did find a seven-foot-tall skeleton man in Edgartown.”
Vanderhoop shared several stories about how the other Islands in the sound were formed, including one about Moshup emptying sand from his moccasins, which created Nantucket and Nomans Land. This latter island, we learned, was also used as a bombing range by the U.S. Navy starting in World War II.
The next stop was the overlook to see the Cliffs, after passing through the Wampanoag-owned and -operated shops on our way up. “The story is that the whales would come so close to shore that Moshup would pluck them out of the ocean and throw them at the Cliffs, staining them red.” Speaking further about their primary colors, Vanderhoop noted, “It’s white, black, yellow, and red — which is iron, and iron is what is in our blood.”
We learned more about traditional whaling methods. Sea levels were lower back then, and whales would wash up on the shoals. People would then go out to retrieve them in mishoons, dugout canoes made from a single hollowed-out log. Of the later whaling era, Vanderhoop noted, “Our folks were employed on those whaling ships because we were great fishermen, so we usually were the spearheads. That was one of the most dangerous jobs, but also one of the most well-paid. The Indian, Tashtego, in ‘Moby Dick’ was from Gay Head.”
Vanderhoop then related the harrowing history of Epanow, a Wampanoag from Martha’s Vineyard who was kidnapped in the early 17th century by a British captain. “Epanow was taken to England, where he was put on display. However, he learned English and discovered that what the Europeans desired above all else was gold. So he started a rumor that there was gold on the Island. Over time, they planned an expedition to return to Martha’s Vineyard. When they were off the shores, the Wampanoag people saw the ship and came out to see the boat. To the Wampanoags’ surprise, they were greeted by Epanow.” Apparently, after some discussion, they left. When the sailors asked what the Wampanoag had said, Epanow replied that the men would come back at first light. Not trusting Epanow, they dressed him in a long nightgown of the day, thinking it would be easy to snatch him this way if he were to try to escape. Vanderhoop said, “First light comes, and two mishoons full of men come out, and all of a sudden the ship is hailed in arrows, and Epanow jumps off and swims to safety.”
Among other things, we learned that starting in the 1880s, tourists would travel up to the Cliffs by steamer to spend the day purchasing art from the Wampanoag and taking an ox cart ride, and that the town didn’t get electricity until 1951.
Moving on to the lighthouse, Vanderhoop mesmerized us with the tale of the January 14, 1884, disaster of the City of Columbus. The 275-foot luxury vessel was traveling from Boston to Savannah with 87 passengers and 45 crew members. When it ran aground on a reef just off the Cliffs, 75 passengers and 28 crew members drowned. Despite the risk of instant hypothermia in the frigid winter waters, Vanderhoop related, “Our folks went out in little catboats and saved as many people as they could. Because of that they were awarded the medals of bravery, and got a lifesaving station.”
There was so much more during this rich, immersive experience. With only three stops on the tour, the walking aspect of the program is minimal, but more than made up for by the depth of the storytelling. Aquinnah Cultural Center director NaDaizja Bolling remarked, “You never know what you will learn from the walking tour. It’s interesting how different stories resonate for folks, and what questions arise from the group. It’s not your typical walking tour.” My lasting impression was the sense that I was “seeing” this gorgeous end of Noepe through different eyes, reminding me of what Bolling said: “We are looking out into the landscape and describing what we see, and it’s sometimes beyond the physical manifestation of that particular site.”
The “Aquinnah Wampanoag History in Perspective” walking tours take place every Wednesday through August 20 from 4:30 – 5:30 pm, departing from the Aquinnah Cultural Center. $10 per adult (tickets can be purchased at the center); tribal members are admitted free of charge.