Casual New American restaurants are a common sight these days. They were all the rage a couple of years back, when everyone and their mother used these words to describe their new restaurant. But with the case of Beach Road in Vineyard Haven, it’s actually an honest and precise description of the eatery.
When I think of New American restaurants, I expect a melting pot of influences and cultures, a blend of flavors and spices, a menu with a variety of dishes from around the world coming together to present a concise vision. That’s what Beach Road achieves, thanks to its executive chef Sean Yancey. Raised between Mississippi and Louisiana, then having moved up toward Yankee territory, Chef Yancey is a Southerner at heart — you can taste that influence on his menu. Before landing on-Island, Chef Yancey had a résumé that would impress the queen. He worked everywhere from the Savoy in London to restaurants in the Berkshires, as well as AAA Five Diamond and Forbes 5 Star fine dining restaurants in Maine.
Once you get his dinner menu in your hands, all that experience comes to fruition. You can do a study on chowders, either Manhattan or New England clam chowder, or maybe a side-by-side comparison of a Down-Island Lobster Roll (chilled with a lemon aioli) and an Up-Island Lobster Roll (warm, butter-poached).
This season, there are changes to the menu’s setup. Formerly, there was a focus on table sharing and small plates. Now Beach Road is offering a classic separation of starters, fixings, plates, and more. You’ll notice a section inspired by the sea and local fisheries, with a focus on all things raw, from a variety of oysters and littlenecks to shrimp cocktail and tuna tartare. For a splurge of a sampler, try their Beach Road Tower.
For those of you with dietary restrictions, you’ll be happy to hear that Beach Road focuses on bringing everyone together and having something for everyone. If you’re vegan, you can order to your heart’s content, as most mother sauces and base items are made vegan (until they’re finished with butter, if you’re not vegan). Try the Tofu Eggplant Rollatine, where lightly fried eggplant is rolled and stuffed with an ethereal blend of whipped tofu and garlic. I don’t think I’ve ever used the words “ethereal” and “tofu” in the same sentence ever, but it’s well deserved. Normally, this dish comes topped with housemade ricotta, but order it without, and I promise you’re not missing anything, because whatever they do to that whipped tofu is pure magic. Live the gluten-free life? This might just be the only place on the Island with a gluten-free fried chicken: it’s corn-flour-crusted and served with mashed potatoes, jicama slaw, and a bacon aioli. Vegetarian menus more your style? They have an entire section of “fixings” with almost all vegetarian preparations like wood-grilled cauliflower, carrots roasted with pistachios and pistou, and more. Basically, Beach Road is the place to go when you’re putting together a group of varied palates. Whatever your lifestyle, just make sure to order the tofu eggplant dish — I’m still dreaming about it, and that’s not something I ever say about tofu.
Currently, Beach Road is open for dinner service Wednesdays through Saturdays starting at 5 pm. Reservations are recommended by calling 508-693-8582.