Saturday night special

Great Harbor Market takes gas station food up a notch. 

Pizza and fries set to go into the toaster oven for warming. —Nicole Jackson

When I think of gas station food, what comes to mind is hot dogs rolling in warming cases, pizza that might have been sitting for a couple hours longer than it should, bland-looking sandwiches wrapped tightly to preserve their shelf life, and mystery meat on a bun. Not at Great Harbor Market, one of the gas stations located in Edgartown. Word on the street is that they do pizza nights Wednesday through Saturday, 5 to 8 pm. When somebody told me deep dish pizza was an option, which is a rare find around here, it jumped to the top of the places I wanted to try.
Saturday evenings I work at a horse farm; when I’m done typically I’m covered in a layer of dirt, sweat, and horse kisses. When I get home, I never want to cook. I like to take a cool shower, have some “weekend food,” and pick out a movie on Netflix. I wrapped up my shift and I ordered myself a deep dish “Drunken Grandma,” with bacon ($21.25) and a side of fries ($3.99) off the Toast online ordering app. I tucked the horses in with plenty of hay and headed to Edgartown. Coming from West Tisbury, I was able to scoot right into the gas station by driving by the Edgartown library, avoiding all Triangle traffic. 

I walked into the gas station store, and it was immaculate, organized, with smiling staff and customers. I had to remind myself it was summertime on Martha’s Vineyard. Most of the store has the gas station essentials, then the entire right side is dedicated to their food service and takeout. I went over to the pickup counter; I am shy, so when the gentleman gave me my order the pizza box was huge, and I could feel my cheeks blushing, which I’m sure he associated with the summer heat. I knew I was blushing because that entire pizza was all for me. I ordered the Drunken Grandma purely based on the name, it made me laugh so it was my choice without even reading through the other options. I snuck a paper menu into my purse to look over later. 

I headed home, snacking on some of the fries along the way. I opened the pizza box when I got there, and the pizza was square. I love a square pizza, one of my pet peeves is round things in square containers and square things in round containers. The deep dish, “Grandma Style” they call it, had vodka sauce, crushed tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, Pecorino Romano, and EVOO, and the bacon was obvious because there was a lot of it, which for $21.25 made me smile. 

I took a VERY quick shower, put on the movie “The Breakfast Club” and popped a slice of the pizza and fries into my toaster oven. The first slice I ate warm, the second at room temperature. For breakfast the next morning, two more slices, cold. I liked the pizza room-temperature best, but I’m a bit of a Goldielocks, so I’m not surprised. The dough was thick, but kind of airy at the same time. Two slices filled me up, without question. Plenty of toppings and sauce, enough sauce to keep it from being dry, but not so much sauce when you picked up a slice the cheese slid off. 

I prefer thick crust, but If you aren’t a fan, they have the more traditional 12-inch Neapolitan-style pizzas. You can build your own, choose from one of the pies they’ve crafted, or customize one of theirs with add-ons, like I did. After a closer look over their menu, I found the affordability refreshing. They also offer takeout for breakfast and lunch Monday through Saturday, 7 am to 2 pm. The prices range from $10 to $15, with the pizzas all around $20 each. You’ll have to check it out. It’s a convenient stop on your way home from South Beach, quick and easy pickup if you’re on your lunch break — or a special treat for yourself on a Saturday night. 

Great Harbor Market is located at 199 Upper Main St., Edgartown. The kitchen is open 7 am to 2 pm; visit to check out the menu. Order in person, call 508-694-6888, or online via the Toast ordering app.