The bagel, whole

The Model Deli fills the authentic bagel void.

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Eating bagels and spreading love: The Model Deli is now open in Vineyard Haven to share sandwiches and smiles, according to their T shirts at least. At 342 State Road, the new shop took over the space where the Larder used to sell groceries and provisions. The charming front porch, which used to be covered with fresh fruit and vegetables, is now dotted with tables, chairs, and bagel crumbs. Inside, the shop boasts an impressive menu, with 17 breakfast and lunch sandwiches filled with everything from M.V. Smokehouse tuna to housemade corned beef.

Spring Sheldon, who also owns S&S Kitchenette, opened the deli in May because she “needed to get a good bagel regularly on the Island.” Spring had been dreaming of filling in the bagel hole in her heart, and in the Island’s bakery scene, for the past 10 years. When her friend, baker Kelsey Cosby, approached her, and the space became available, Spring jokes, they “opened as a community service.” Kelsey is now the head baker and bagelmaker extraordinaire, along with executive Chef Alex Garzero. The team plans to keep baking for the locals, keeping their doors open and prices down all year-round.

The New York–style deli pays homage to its inspiration, with bagels boiled in-house every morning, 10 different schmear options, a case full of pickled goodies, and a basket of black and white cookies. Days at the deli start early, around 5 am, when three bagel bakers show up to prepare 250 bagels. When the doors open at 7 am on weekdays and 8 am on weekends, the breakfast sandwich is the most popular pick, with an optional added latke to enhance the classic combo. Breakfast bagels with schmears, smoked trout, whitefish salad, and smoked salmon are also available. At 11 am, the lunch menu opens, with options served on Iggy’s bread, housemade brioche and bagels, and even scallion pancakes.

The deli is perfectly located for visitors on their way to a “Beach Day” (MV Smokehouse tuna, red onion, banana peppers, iceberg, salt, and vinegar chips on brioche). Through the summer, shoppers have often been residents on their lunch breaks, stopping in for “the Local” (smoked bluefish pâte, banana peppers, red onion, everything spice). Those missing the Larder, which was managed by Jefferson Munroe and locally famous for fried chicken, can stop in for the eponymously named “the Jefferson” (fried chicken, buttermilk ranch, bread-and-butter pickles on brioche). Vegetarians and Skittles fans are welcome to “Eat the Rainbow” (marinated zuke and summer squash, roasted red pepper schmear, shredded carrots, sprouts, red onion, marinated tomatoes). Not to get “Grilly Cheesy” (Cheddar, provolone, American, Gruyere, deli mustard on an asiago bagel), but the Model Deli is feeding a happy and “Strong Island” (hot Model Deli pastrami, swiss, sauerkraut, spicy brown mustard, and an everything brioche).

The Model Deli, named after Spring’s great-grandfather’s Model Dairy in Texas, aims to uphold the now generations-old standards of consistency and quality. Fresh bagels bagged by the dozen or sandwiched with schmears will be available all year. As the summer season slows, fall flavors and special additions will appear, including challah and babka bread. Catering and platters are also available for celebrations, holidays, or any brunch that needs an extra bite. So far, Spring says, the summer has been great, and she looks forward to serving the Island this fall and winter.

The Model Deli is located in Vineyard Haven at 342 State Road. You can call them at 508-338-7830.

 

2 COMMENTS

  1. I feel like I manifested this. Was just complaining about the dry and dusty bagels on MV and wondering where to go for authenticity. Great news.🙂

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