Model Deli is a model of deliciousness

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Sun peaking through morning clouds, slight chill creeping, bronze leaves getting closer. The smell of fall is faint, but by lunchtime it’ll be a tease of a summer day. My wife and I chose this September Saturday to run errands. Living in Aquinnah means errand days come with a lunch date. These days our lunch excursions include extra company — our beautiful newborn son, who, though he keeps us up at night, is so lovely. You can call us foodies, flavor town regulars, or inquisitors of taste. We own a catering business called Fire Catering MV, and post food reviews regularly.

This Saturday our errand-day lunch choice was the new Vineyard Haven eatery Model Deli. We parked close by, and chose to walk with our stroller while enjoying the calm weather. As we approached the tiny but charming building, my stomach began to growl. The first thing I noticed was the brightly colored handwritten menu on the wall directly to the right once you enter. I loved the font choice, it was easy to read, and not overly filled with so many options that you just can’t make up your mind. Extra points for me already. I am a firm believer that a plethora of menu items can sometimes mean not everything will taste pleasant. As chef mentors of mine have said before, “Do a few things really well, not a lot of things kind of good.”

After carefully dissecting the menu to find my perfect Saturday lunch bite, I decided to indulge in what the sandwich Model Deli calls the Cryin’ Cow. As a man who strives to achieve a pit-master level of barbecue skills, I had to see exactly what this Cow was Cryin’ about. Braised brisket, caramelized onions, gochujang BBQ sauce, whipped chive cheese, pickled onions, on an everything brioche roll. First, the gochujang BBQ sauce caught my eye. It seems to be a hot item these days in the culinary world. Second, whipped chive cheese!? My flavor buds started dancing around like an August night on Circuit Ave. Oh, and hold on a minute, an everything brioche? “Intrigued” is an understatement. I placed my order at the counter, and made my way to the cozy front porch where my wife had found a spot for us to fill our bellies. I could tell she was already wondering if I would enjoy my selection, as she likes to remind me how much of a critic I can be. At times she’s even gone as far as to compare me to the tough critic in the animated movie “Ratatouille.”

There’s something special about a sandwich wrapped in paper. It’s like unwrapping a gift. As I unveiled the Cryin’ Cow, the tasty aroma filled my nostrils. Then, my eyes ate first — attracted by the look of this ’wich. The tender juicy brisket, salty and slight kick of the gochujang sauce, tangy onions, and the everything brioche, was everything I wanted it to be. But the star of the show — what brought it all together — was that creamy, absolutely divine, whipped chive cheese. Did my wife ask for a bite? Indeed she did, but I only gave her one. Saturday errand-run lunch date complete, and a success. Not a cent wasted. Safe to say I’ll be eating there more, not less.

Model Deli is located at 342 State Road in Vineyard Haven. Hours are Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Monday, 7 am to 3 pm, and Saturday and Sunday, 8 am to 3 pm.