For this month’s “In the Kitchen with,” I met with Nina Mae Levin, owner of Stoney Hill Pizza and Ophelia’s Pastry Trailer. Stoney Hill Pizza is in its sixth season. “I opened it after working in the industry for 10 years,” said Levin. “We opened during COVID, which was a little intense. But it was also perfect, because everyone was having small outdoor gatherings. We started doing mini pop-ups in our yard, and friends would come and get pizza. Then we did the farmers market. Now we just do private events.”
Ophelia’s came about more recently: “Last year, I was like, ‘OK, I’ve done everything I can with pizza,’ so my dad and I outfitted a mini camper, and we started selling sweet treats — homemade soft-serves and pastries — at the farmers market. It’s so much fun.” Levin said they change their soft-serve flavors every two weeks, and that they also sell coffee. “We teamed up with Andrew Kahl of East to West Coffee, who came up with a special blend for us. And we have a special shaken iced coffee that everyone is obsessed with.”
I met Levin at the commercial kitchen she works out of, and asked what she was cooking up for our “In the Kitchen with” column: “I’m making Fried Stuffed Castelvetrano Olives.” This was good news to me. I love olives. “It’s an easy recipe to make and a really nice snack,” said Levin.
She had a medium-size pot with about 3 inches of oil going on the stove to fry the olives in. While that was heating, she started making the aioli. She cracked the egg yolks into a cup, along with garlic, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, salt, and pepper, then added in a little oil at a time. “I am using olive oil and canola, but you can use any vegetable-blend oil. I always put Dijon in all my aiolis, because it helps bind the ingredients, and a little water to blend it.” Levin kept the immersion tool moving while adding oil (you can also use a whisk). “Start slowly and keep adding oil. Once it starts getting thicker, I add a little water and some lemon juice. I get it to the consistency I want, and then I season it with salt.”
For the olives, Levin used Divina organic pitted olives. “I strain them first, and then air-dry them for a bit,” she explained. “You don’t want them too dry, because then the flour won’t stick. While they’re drying, I take out my favorite goat cheese, or another soft cheese.” Levin had three bowls set up: one for flour, one for egg yolks, one for breadcrumbs. “Next, mix up the goat cheese until it’s spreadable, add in grated Parmesan, lemon zest, black pepper, and finely chopped fresh basil, then pipe it into the olives. Then you’re ready to bread. Flour first, then egg, then bread crumbs. If you have time and want to double the bread crumbs, put them right back into the flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs. Double-breading makes them very crispy.”
Once the olives were breaded, we headed to the stove. “You want the oil to be hot — around 350°F — so they will brown on the outside, but not so hot that the cheese bursts out.” If you don’t have a thermometer, Levin showed me a trick: Hold a wooden skewer until it touches the bottom of the pan; when you see bubbles on the bottom, it’s ready.
Levin suggested putting the olives in the oil in batches. “Let them brown a bit, and keep stirring. Use a tray to put them on, with a rack if you have one, then paper towels on top. Let them cool for a couple of minutes. They are good when they’re hot but not too hot. Plate them and add a little lemon zest and fresh basil.”
I waited until they were cooled, and popped one into my mouth. Then I tried a double-breaded one. YUM. So crispy. I’m not much of a goat-cheese fan, but these were amazing, and I wound up eating a handful. They were really delicious — a hint of sweet and salty — and the goat cheese was very mild. These would make a great appetizer, or even a meal for light eaters.
You can find Nina Mae Levin at the West Tisbury Farmers Market in her cool Ophelia’s camper serving treats and coffee every Saturday. To learn more about Stoney Hill Pizza, visit stoneyhillpizza.com. To learn more about Ophelia’s, contact Levin through the Stoney Hill Pizza website, and/or visit her on Instagram @opheliastreats.
Fried Stuffed Castelvetrano Olives
About 4 servings; prep time: 20 minutes; cook time: 5 minutes.
For olives:
1 cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted
4 oz. fresh goat cheese (chèvre), softened
1 Tbsp. fresh basil, finely chopped
½ tsp. lemon zest (optional)
freshly ground black pepper to taste
For breading:
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 egg, beaten
½ cup plain or Italian-style breadcrumbs (or gluten-free)
Neutral oil (e.g., canola or vegetable), for frying
For topping:
2–3 Tbsp. finely grated Parmesan cheese
Optional: pinch of red chili flakes
Optional: extra chopped basil or lemon zest, for garnish
Prepare the filling: In a small bowl, combine goat cheese, basil, lemon zest (if using), and black pepper. Mix until smooth and well-blended.
Stuff the olives: Using a small piping bag or a zip-top bag with a corner snipped off, pipe the cheese mixture into each pitted olive. Wipe off any excess.
Bread the olives: Set up three shallow bowls: one with flour, one with beaten egg, and one with breadcrumbs. Roll each stuffed olive in flour, dip in egg, then coat in breadcrumbs. For extra crunch, repeat the egg and breadcrumb steps.
Chill (optional but recommended): Place the breaded olives on a plate or tray, and chill in the fridge for 15 to 20 minutes to help the coating set.
Fry the olives: Heat about 1 to 2 inches of oil in a pot to 350°F (175°C). Fry the olives in batches for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate to drain.
Top and serve: While the olives are still warm, sprinkle with grated Parmesan and chili flakes. Garnish with additional basil or lemon zest if desired. Serve hot.
Lemon Aioli
Makes about ¾ cup; prep time: 10 minutes.
1 clove garlic, finely minced or grated
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice (more to taste)
1 egg yolk, room-temperature
¼ tsp. kosher salt (adjust to taste)
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 Tbsp olive oil
½ cup neutral oil (like canola or vegetable)
Whisk the base: In a medium bowl, whisk together the garlic, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, egg yolk, salt, and pepper until well-combined.
Emulsify the oils: Start adding the oils very slowly, a few drops at a time, whisking constantly. Begin with the olive oil, then gradually add the neutral oil in a slow stream. Continue whisking until the mixture thickens and turns pale and creamy.
Adjust and finish: Once emulsified, taste and adjust seasoning. Add a bit more lemon juice, salt, or pepper if needed.
Chill (optional): Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 to 4 days.
