Cà Phê

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After a monumental blizzard whipped the Island, the drifts and icy roads are conducive to hanging up your keys and staying indoors. For coffee enthusiasts stuck sitting in their homes watching the icicles drip from the gutters, do not fret: You can make a delicious and unique cup of joe to keep you cozy as the snow melts. 

Vietnam has a storied history with coffee. The beverage was first introduced to the country by French colonists and missionaries, but its success is credited to Vietnamese laborers who cultivated the robusta bean after the Vietnam War, or, depending on whom you’re asking, the American War. 

In an effort to climb out of extreme poverty after the war ended in 1975, Vietnam turned toward the coffee industry. With the postwar boom in coffee production, the industry became a pathway to recovery, and helped to rebuild the country’s economy. By the early ’90s, Vietnam was one of the world’s top producers. Today, Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee exporter after Brazil. 

The robusta coffee bean is grown primarily in Vietnam, and flourishes in the Central Highlands and the south of the country. It brews an earthy and slightly bitter cup of coffee with twice the caffeine content of the typical arabica bean, which is more commonly found in South America. 

In the 20th century, fresh milk was scarce and refrigeration limited. Creative alternatives including condensed milk, whipped egg yolk, and coconut cream became staples. The result was not substitution but invention, and the drinks born then are now cultural icons.

Often enjoyed on low red plastic stools along busy sidewalks, coffee in Vietnam is a record of everything the country has been through. Cafés across the country invite locals and travelers alike to linger over a sweet, creamy egg coffee or a bold, slow-dripped black brew, watching motorbikes buzz past. Luckily, you don’t need a plane ticket to Saigon to experience it. Many of Vietnam’s most beloved coffee drinks can be easily recreated at home. 

White Coffee — Ca Phe Su’a

White coffee is traditionally made with a phin filter, which is a small metal brewing tool that sits atop a mug for a slow-drip process that produces a more concentrated coffee. This zero-waste process is the opposite of the instant Nespresso machine, and the patience required to make it becomes part of the joy of drinking it. Black coffee makes up two of the ingredients in this cup; however, a portion of the coffee is rapidly whipped, creating a foamy and light texture, and poured over the drink, adding volume. 

1.5 Tbsp. strong black coffee, whipped until creamy

3.5 Tbsp. strong black coffee

1.5 Tbsp. sweetened condensed milk

½ cup ice

Combine condensed milk and coffee in a glass over ice. Top with whipped coffee and stir.

Egg Coffee — Ca Phe Tru’ng

Egg coffee originated in the 1940s during the first Indochina war. It’s said to have been created by a bartender in Hanoi, a city in the north of the country, who used egg yolk as a creamy alternative to milk. The egg yolk is whisked with sugar and condensed milk and poured over black coffee, creating an airy, custard-like cream that complements the rich brew. 

1 egg yolk

⅓ tsp. vanilla

1 tsp. honey

1 tsp. rice wine

1.5 Tbsp. sweetened condensed milk

3.5 Tbsp. hot black coffee

Whisk egg yolk, vanilla, honey, rice wine, and condensed milk until thick and creamy. Pour hot coffee into a ceramic cup, then spoon the egg mixture over the top.

Salt Coffee

Robusta coffee is dark, and a pinch of salt folded into the thick cream on top softens the bitterness, making the layered drink taste almost like caramel. 

⅓ tsp. salt

1.5 Tbsp. whipping cream

1.5 Tbsp. fresh milk

3.5 Tbsp. sweetened condensed milk

3.5 Tbsp. black coffee

ice

cocoa powder for garnish

Whisk salt, cream, and fresh milk until foamy. Pour condensed milk and coffee over ice, then top with salted foam. Dust with cocoa powder if that’s how you like it.

Coconut Coffee

Although delicious, coconut coffee is not a drink you’ll find someone having in the morning to start the day. Falling closer to a dessert, the drink, sometimes blended with ice, is perfect for a hot afternoon. 

1.5 Tbsp. whipping cream

2 Tbsp. coconut cream

2 Tbsp. sweetened condensed milk

ice

3.5 Tbsp. black coffee

Shake cream, coconut cream, condensed milk, and ice until chilled. Whip the coffee separately until frothy. Pour over the coconut mixture and serve.

From whipped-egg foam to salted cream to coconut sweetness, Vietnam’s coffee drinks tell a story of creativity born from necessity. What began as improvisation has become a defining part of the country’s culture, and a delicious one at that. So take out a carton of eggs and attempt to separate the yolk from the white, put some salt in your coffee, and if you have it in your pantry, add some coconut cream — try something you’ve never tried before. Who knows? It might become part of your morning ritual.